If you aren’t familiar with alt bars, they’re a unique type of mountain bike handlebar that’s designed for long-distance riding. These comfortable handlebars offer a broad variety of hand positions, riding postures, and accessory mounting points. Most of these bars will provide some extra steering leverage for better control over your loaded bike too.

To make sure you properly understand upright riding positions, backsweep angles, backward reach, grip design, handlebar material and much more – make sure to first read my complete guide to finding the most comfortable alt bars HERE.

Right, let’s dive straight into the best alt bars currently available.

The Best Alt Bars For Bikepacking and Touring

The alt bars listed below are in order from largest to smallest backsweep.

• Best For Varied Hand Positions: Velo Orange Crazy Bars
• Best For Comfort and Speed: KOGA Denham Bars
• Best For Frames With A Short Reach: Surly Moloko
• Best For Maximum Control: Tumbleweed Persuader
• Best For High Rise: Ritchey Comp Buzzard
• Best For Value For Money: Ritchey Kyote
• Best For Most Mountain Bikers: Salsa Bend Deluxe
• Best For Shock Absorption: Passchier Gump 760
• Best For New Alt Bar Users: Soma Dream Lowdown
• Best For Lightweight Design: SQlab 311 FL-X Carbon
• Best For Aero Loop: Satori Falcon Aero
• Best For High Rise & Small Backsweep: Cannondale Cruise Control
• Best For Drop Bar Conversions: Curve Remlaw

Note: I may earn a commission when you purchase a handlebar through my links. This directly supports CYCLINGABOUT and allows me to continue to provide high-quality cycling information to you.

Velo Orange Crazy Bars V2

Best For Varied Hand Positions

Backsweep: 35-degrees
Width: 780 mm
Rise: 40mm (1.6″)
Stem Clamp: 31.8mm
Material: Aluminium
Weight: 532g (18.8 oz)

$109 at Amazon

The Velo Orange Crazy Bars use a 35-degree backsweep angle and a long backward reach. This means it will best suit the most upright of riding positions.

Velo Orange touts their second version of the Crazy Bars as “intended for touring on paved and unpaved roads, single and double track, gravel and crushed limestone, and everything in between”. As this handlebar is almost identical to the handlebar I designed myself (KOGA Denham Bars), I have to say – I agree with this assessment!

The 780mm width provides excellent control and leverage on rough surfaces, while the bullhorn section offers an aerodynamic position for smoother roads and headwinds.

If you don’t feel the need for the bullhorns, the Velo Orange Seine Bar is the same design, minus the bullhorns.

KOGA Denham Bars

Best For Control and Speed

Backsweep: 34-degrees
Width: 711 mm
Rise: None
Stem Clamp: 31.8mm
Material: Aluminium
Weight: 400g (14.1oz)

€120 at Vakantiefietser

I designed the KOGA Denham Bars for world bicycle travellers. The shape was inspired by the Crazy Bars V1, and I suspect the KOGA Denham Bars then informed the later-released Crazy Bars V2.

The KOGA Denham Bars offer lots of control over a loaded bike, there are many hand positions for comfort, and the bullhorns allow you to be more aerodynamic in headwinds. The bullhorns essentially mimic the hoods of a drop bar, making them a nice spot to hold on faster rides.

A great thing about these bars is that they fit bikepacking bags, large handlebar bags, and randonneur bags and baskets.

While this handlebar is certainly similar to the Crazy Bars, it features less rise, less width, shorter grip sections, and a slightly smaller backsweep angle. This makes it a bit better in urban areas. I typically recommend fitting these bars to bikes with the handlebars level with the stem (at a minimum).

While I use and love these handlebars, they are unfortunately the most difficult to purchase on this list due to the small-scale manufacturing and international shipping costs. Don’t worry, I won’t be offended if you choose the Velo Orange Crazy Bars instead!

You can read my in-depth article about the KOGA Denham Bars and their design HERE.

Surly Moloko

Best For Upright Frames With A Short Reach

Backsweep: 34-degrees
Width: 735 mm
Rise: None
Stem Clamp: 31.8mm
Material: Steel
Weight: 709g (25oz)

$110 at Jenson USA

The Surly Moloko might look similar to the above handlebars, but in terms of backward reach, it couldn’t be more different. This handlebar swoops a long way forward before starting its backsweep, resulting in almost no backward reach.

This design quirk makes the Moloko especially suitable for drop bar conversions, and for those who are seeking a large backsweep without making their ride position more upright. It also means you can ride mountain bike trails without risking your bars slipping.

The Moloko features a loop that gives you some more hand positions and additional space for mounting accessories. You can even get handlebar bags that nest perfectly inside the loop; I have a bunch listed in this resource. That said, when you install a bag you lose some hand positions and possibly even some accessory mounting points.

Tumbleweed Persuader 30

Best For Maximum Control

Backsweep: 31-degrees
Width: 800/840mm
Rise: 50mm (2″)
Stem Clamp: 31.8mm
Material: Aluminium
Weight: 411g (14.5oz)

$115 at Campfire Cycling

The Tumbleweed Persuader is the widest alt bar featured in this resource, and this provides maximum control over your loaded bike. They have a lot of backward reach and slightly less backsweep than the previous bars we’ve seen. The 50mm rise should make the Persuador especially well-suited to low front-end bikes.

You can get these bars in aluminium or steel. I think the aluminium ones are the pick as they’re quite lightweight for a tough adventure bar, plus the 160mm wide, 31.8mm clamp area is a great space for bikepacking gadgets.

You can also get the Persuader with a 20-degree backsweep. This will be ideal if your bars are not super upright, or you’re not ready to commit to a large backsweep angle just yet.

Ritchey Comp Buzzard

Best For High Rise Design

Backsweep: 27.5-degrees
Width: 820mm
Rise: 70mm (2.8″)
Stem Clamp: 31.8mm
Material: Aluminium
Weight: 367g (13.0oz)

$58 at Amazon

If you want a more upright ride position without the long backward reach of the Tumbleweed Persuader, you cannot beat the Ritchey Comp Buzzard. This bar is wide like the Persuader but thanks to its short backward reach, it won’t make your bike feel any smaller.

This bar can turn old mountain bikes (with a low front end) into mile-munching touring or bikepacking machines.

The Ritchey Comp Buzzard has a nice wide centre section to accommodate various bags and accessories. It’s built lightweight thanks to the double-butted aluminium and it even comes in at a great price.

Ritchey Kyote

Best For Value For Money

Backsweep: 27.5-degrees
Width: 800mm
Rise: 35mm (1.4″)
Stem Clamp: 31.8mm
Material: Aluminium
Weight: 355g (12.5oz)

$44 at Amazon

Ritchey also has other great comfort MTB handlebars such as this one – the Ritchey Kyote. This alt bar is essentially a low-rise version of the Comp Buzzard, so it offers a short backward reach too.

The Kyote is perfect for those who are looking to maintain a lower ride position and will be great for drop bar bike conversions too. The best bit is that it’s only US $44.

Whisky Scully

Best For Moderate Backsweep Angle

Backsweep: 23-degrees
Width: 820mm
Rise: 20mm (0.8″)
Stem Clamp: 31.8mm
Material: Carbon
Weight: 237g (8.4oz)

$180 at Amazon

If you’re a bit of a gram counter, but still want some backsweep – you’ll love the Whisky Scully. This handlebar is one-third of the weight of the Surly Moloko, thanks to its carbon construction.

It’s still ISO tested for bumpy terrain and would be a great upgrade for paved commutes and whatever off-road riding you’re into — gravel, XC, singletrack, and beyond.

The 23-degree backsweep is now getting closer to the common shape of a city bike handlebar. It has a moderate backward reach, and moderate rise too.

Passchier Gump 760

Best For Shock Absorption

Backsweep: 22-degrees
Width: 650/760mm
Rise: None
Stem Clamp: 31.8mm
Material: Bamboo
Weight: 330g (11.6 oz)

$225 at Passchier

Bamboo offers greater natural flex than traditional handlebar materials. These are the most flexible handlebars I’ve ever ridden. They flex so much up and down that you can actually see them moving underneath you (check out this video).

This flex isolates your upper body from shock and vibration coming up from the road or trail and helps your eyeballs to rattle a bit less in your skull. The great thing is that despite all this flex, they still pass ISO fatigue and strength testing.

The Passchiers are made from laminated bamboo with a carbon fibre sleeve in the middle for the stem clamp. You can get them in two different widths, and they offer a modest 22-degree backsweep angle.

Soma Dream Lowdown

Best For New Alt Bar Users

Backsweep: 20-degrees
Width: 780mm
Rise: 25mm (1″)
Stem Clamp: 31.8mm
Material: Aluminium
Weight: 425g (15oz)

$99 at Amazon

The Soma Dream Lowdown is an alt bar with less backsweep and backward reach than most. As this bar has moderate dimensions all around, I think it’s a really good starting point for those who are alt bar curious!

The bar is still quite wide, giving you a whole lot of control over your loaded bike. And the 25mm rise makes it suitable for those chasing a slightly higher bar height than what they currently have.

These aluminium alt bars are lightweight for a tough adventure bar, plus the wide section at the front of the bar provides ample space for lights, smartphones, and GPS devices.

Salsa Bend Deluxe

Best For Most Mountain Bikers

Backsweep: 17/23-degrees
Width: 710/740mm
Rise: None
Stem Clamp: 31.8mm
Material: Aluminium
Weight: 309g (10.9 oz)

$78 at Jenson USA

The Salsa Bend Deluxe is an MTB-specific flat bar that’s available with a moderate 17 or 23-degree backsweep angle. They’re tough, strong and durable, and great for long days of bikepacking, touring, or shredding singletrack.

The Bend Deluxe offers a very short backward reach to preserve your stem length, meaning that when you fit these comfortable MTB handlebars to your bike, the reach to the bars will likely end up in the right ballpark.

Go for the 17-degree model if your bars are lower than your saddle, or you want to give alt bars a try without committing to a large backsweep. Try the 23-degree model if your bars sit a bit taller.

SQlab 311 FL-X Carbon

Best For Ultralight Design

Backsweep: 12/16-degrees
Width: 740 mm
Rise: 15, 30mm
Stem Clamp: 31.8mm
Material: Carbon
Weight: 198g (6.9 oz)

$339 at Amazon

SQlab has built its name on comfort. Their research suggests that a cyclist’s wrists are overstretched on any flat bar with less than a 9-degree backsweep angle…

That’s why the SQlab 311 FL-X handlebars offer a generous 12 or 16-degree backsweep angle, and with a longer backward reach than most bars in the MTB category, they provide a more upright riding position too.

The 311 FL-X bars have been designed to flex more than most handlebars, and this will result in a super comfortable ride on both rough roads and trails.

And at under 200 grams, the SQlab 311 FL-X handlebars are also the lightest on this list.

Satori Falcon Aero

Best For Aero Loop

Backsweep: 15-degrees
Width: 740mm
Rise: None
Stem Clamp: 31.8mm
Material: Aluminium
Weight: 504g (1.1lb)

$44 on Amazon

The Satori Faclon Aero combines the loop design of other alt bars with one of the more conservative backsweep angles on this list. As a result, it shouldn’t feel too different from a standard mountain bike bar. While it doesn’t have any rise, there are ample hand positions for comfort.

The loop adds space for luggage storage, and accessories (phone, GPS, lights etc), as well as an aero hand position. The loop is a similar size to other alt handlebars, allowing it to fit bags made for Jones and Surly bars.

Cannondale Cruise Control

Best For High Rise & Low Backsweep Angle

Backsweep: 15-degrees
Width: 740mm
Rise: 100mm (4″)
Stem Clamp: 31.8mm
Material: Aluminium
Weight: 433g (1.7lb)

$67 at Amazon

If you’re after a whole bunch of rise with a more familiar backsweep angle, you’ll be best off with handlebars that feature a reinforcing crossbar. The Cannondale Cruise Control is a retro-inspired cruiser bar, trail bar, comfort bar, and BMX bar all rolled into one!

The best bit about the Cannondale Cruise Control is that it’s lightweight aluminium (rather than steel) and uses a regular 31.8mm stem clamp, unlike many handlebars of this moto design.

Curve Remlaw

Best For Drop Bar Conversions

Backsweep: 12-degrees
Width: 800mm
Rise: None
Stem Clamp: 31.8mm
Material: Aluminium
Weight: 400g (14.1 oz)

$99 at Curve Cycling

The Remlaw Bar is the only handlebar here with a forward reach design!

Curve essentially wanted to create a flat bar that could be used in place of a drop bar, yet still have comparable reach without compromising handling.

When converting from a drop bar to the Remlaw Bar, the same length stem can be used as it puts your hands in a very similar position in space.

Best Alt Bars Summary

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The post The 13 Best Alt Bars For Bikepacking and Touring (Comfortable MTB Handlebars) appeared first on CYCLINGABOUT.com.

Alt bars are a type of handlebars that are designed specifically for long-distance cycling. They typically offer a broad variety of hand positions, riding postures, and accessory mounts. In addition, you’ll gain extra steering leverage for better control over your loaded bike.

Alt bars are suitable for those who are touring on paved and dirt roads, along 4×4 tracks, down singletrack trails, through unkept fields, and across everything in between.

With the varied hand positions of these handlebars, you’ll not only get to change the pressure points in your hands throughout the day, but you’ll activate different muscles in your arms and back too. Alt bars ultimately help you to look after your body on long rides.

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The 13 Best Alt Bars For Bikepacking and Touring (Comfortable MTB Handlebars)

byAlee Denham

November 30, 2024

A comfortable alt bar setup might even give you the power to cycle more miles, recover quicker, and enjoy more of the scenery while riding.

Many of the alt bars I recommend in this article HERE will help you achieve a more upright riding position. This is usually accomplished by reducing the distance between your saddle and the grips via large backsweep angles, a long backward reach, and a tall handlebar rise – you’ll learn about these terms in a moment!

Alright, let’s find out how to choose the most comfortable alt bars for bikepacking and touring.

Upright Riding Positions

The first thing you need to consider is how upright your riding posture is, and whether it would be beneficial to set your grips even higher.

Your core muscles fatigue on long rides, so most people end up putting more weight onto their hands as the hours go on. By increasing your handlebar height, you can keep the load on your hands at an acceptable level.

In addition, a more upright riding posture usually reduces strain on the neck, shoulders and back, and you tend to look around more at your surroundings.

The primary downside of an upright posture is a less aerodynamic riding position, but you can still rocket along if you fit some aero bars onto your alt bars (highly recommended).

A great starting point for a comfortable alt bar setup is setting your handlebar level with your saddle. You can do this by selecting a bar with a tall rise. If a tall bar setup is new to you, make sure to give it some time for your body to adapt as it might feel a bit strange at the start.

It’s worth noting taller riders will often tolerate a lower handlebar compared to shorter riders as they have longer limbs relative to their torso length. Riders with a strong core tend to also tolerate a lower bar. That said, individual variations exist, and not everyone fits these general patterns.

And a downstream effect of fitting taller bars is that you might also need to swap to a more padded saddle (as you now have more weight on your butt!).

Ok, you should now have a good idea about handlebar height, so let’s discuss the ideal backsweep angle.

Alt Bar Backsweep Angle

Alt bars use larger backsweep angles than typical MTB handlebars. This helps to preserve the natural wrist position of a more upright riding position, reducing finger numbness (which often arises from overstretching your wrist).

I consider:
Small backsweep angles to be 5 to 12 degrees <- almost all MTB bars
Moderate backsweep angles to be 12 to 25 degrees
Large backsweep angles to be 25 to 35 degrees

It’s instantly noticeable going from a flat MTB bar with a 5-12 degree backsweep angle to the 20+ degree backsweep angles of most alt bars.

The perfect backsweep is determined primarily by your ride posture, but also core strength, grip choice, and glove choice. There’s a healthy dose of personal preference in there too.

The more upright and relaxed your body posture, the more backsweep angle you will likely find comfortable. This is because your elbows will naturally pull in closer to your body, changing both your wrist angle and the interaction between your hands and grips.

Conversely, smaller backsweep angles generally suit lower, performance-oriented body postures as your elbows naturally sit wider (see animation above).

If you were to use a large backsweep angle with a low riding posture you’ll likely find your hands naturally want to rest diagonally over your grips, creating pressure points on your palms.

Here are my backsweep angle starting points:

• 5 to 15° will feel most comfortable if your handlebar is lower than your saddle
• 15 to 25° will feel most comfortable if your handlebar is around the same height as your saddle
• 25 to 35° will feel most comfortable if your handlebar is significantly higher than your saddle

If you’re not sure where to land, I’d recommend starting with a bit less backsweep angle, rather than more. The 15 to 25° range is a great start.

Alt Bar Rise

To achieve a comfortable setup for long-distance riding, you should also consider using alt bars with extra rise, which will allow you to sit a bit more upright.

Handlebar rise is measured from the centre of the handlebar to the bar end. Some bars in this resource have zero millimetres of rise and others have over 100mm of rise (4″).

Additional bar height can also be achieved via your stem or by using a steerer extender.

Keep in mind that the ideal backsweep angle will likely need to increase along with the bar height.

Alt Bar Width

Wider handlebars provide additional steering leverage. This results in better control over heavy-loaded bikes on rough trails.

But wide bars also make splitting traffic, getting through doorways, and riding in tight singletrack more difficult. I’ve found that 700 to 730mm is my sweet spot between bike control and travel practicality. But if I spent less time in urban areas, I would likely prefer something closer to 800mm.

Please note that you can cut down all handlebars to size; manufacturers will usually have a minimum recommended width. Just make sure there is enough space on the grip sections to install your shifter(s) and brakes where you like them first – 200mm is about as short as you can practically go.

Also, keep in mind that wider alt bars increase the effective distance to the bars from the saddle. This means you might need to compensate by using a shorter stem or fitting a bar with a long backward reach…

Backward Reach

A handlebar with a large backsweep angle usually brings your handlebars closer to your body, putting you in a more upright ride position. But it isn’t always the case!

You also need to look at the handlebar’s overall design to determine whether it has a long or short backward reach. Does it swoop forward before starting its backsweep like the Surly Moloko, or swoop backward right from the stem clamp like the KOGA Denham Bars?

Handlebars with a long backward reach (eg. KOGA Denham) will put you in a more upright position by reducing the distance from your saddle to your grips. Conversely, handlebars with a short backward reach (eg. Surly Moloko) will allow you to maintain a body position similar to a flat bar.

One important thing to note about long backward reach handlebars: they are not suitable for all mountain bike trails. This is because they can slip and rotate in the stem clamp after a big impact (eg. rock drop). That said, I regularly ride on singletrack; I just make sure to avoid jumps or drops that could cause my bars to slip.

Alt Bar Stem Length

The length of the backward reach also needs to be considered along with your stem length.

To a large degree, you can use stem length to place your grips in the perfect location. But this might require changing your stem length by 30 to 60mm, depending on what riding position you’re looking to achieve.

In some circumstances, you might need to use an especially long stem to get your grips in the ideal position. For example, if you want to fit a handlebar with a long backward reach to a drop bar frame, a 130 or 140mm stem might be required.

Alt Bars and Frame Design

Another thing to consider is the handlebar design that will best pair with your frame.

A flat bar frame (like a mountain bike) is usually the best option for a handlebar with a long backward reach. This is because flat bar frames are usually longer than drop bar frames (by ~50mm), so they will likely accommodate a handlebar with a large backsweep angle and long backward reach.

A drop bar frame (like a road bike) is usually the best candidate for a handlebar with additional forward reach. This is because drop bar frames are usually shorter than flat bar frames, so you’ll want some forward reach to make sure the grips aren’t too close to your body.

Alt Bars For Drop Bar Frames

The most suitable alt bars for a drop bar frame either have a small backward reach or none at at.

There are also alt bars that have been designed specifically for drop bar conversions. These unique handlebars have a large forward reach, allowing you to place your hands slightly in front of the stem clamp.

The Curve Remlaw preserves the hand position of a drop bar without requiring a different length stem. They might even save you a bit of money as you might not need to buy a longer stem.

WhatBars Comparison Tool

A really cool tool for comparing alt bars is WhatBars.

You’ll find many handlebar options in there. Simply select a few bars and the tool will allow you to visualise and compare their geometry and grip locations.

Fitting Inner Bar Ends To Alt Bars

If you like the idea of the ‘bullhorn’ hand position found on the Crazy Bars or Denham Bars, you can find component manufacturers that create clip-on versions.

This hand position is not only more aerodynamic, but it puts different pressure through your hands, and changes the load through your wrists, arms, back and neck.

An internal study by SQlab showed that these inner bar ends can save 14 watts of power output at a speed of 36 km/h (280 watts). This is simply because these inner hand holds put your body in a more aerodynamic riding position.

The Soma Bar Ins Extensions are a great choice as you can choose your clamp location, extension length, and even the inward and upward tilt angles. There is a short (95mm) and long (150mm) bullhorn available.

The Bar Ins clamps angle the extensions inward about 25°, so the extensions would stick straight out on a 25° backsweep alt bar. If you wanted to match the 7° inward bullhorn angle of the Denham Bars, you would need to find an alt bar with an 18° backsweep angle.

Spirgrips are a more performance-oriented product that’s designed to sit next to your grips. They are much shorter and lighter than Soma Bar Ins and are shaped to cup your hands well. They are angled inward to ensure your wrists engage with your bars at a suitable angle.

The SQlab Innerbarends 410 2.0 are another great option, and these best fit right next to your grips. A cool feature is that you can integrate them directly with the lock-on SQlab grips, removing one of the grip clamps. The only downside is that compared to the Bar Ins, you’ll have less ability to tune the angles.

You can, of course, use any regular bar ends too. The only downside is that they’re not usually designed for sweptback handlebars so you might find they angle outwards rather than inwards.

Alt Bar Materials

Alt bar manufacturers offer a broad range of materials including aluminium, steel, titanium, carbon and even bamboo.

The best alt bars for most riders are made from aluminium, which balances cost, weight, comfort, and durability in equal measure. However, other materials are becoming increasingly common in alt bars for various reasons.

To generalise:
– Steel alt bars are known for their durability but they’re heavy
– Carbon handlebars are strong and lightweight but they’re less forgiving to crashes and rough transit
– Titanium handlebars are durable and lightweight but also quite expensive

I’ve listed a bamboo model in my best alt bars article as I found it to have a shocking amount of compliance built in. You can see it deflect a couple of centimetres just by pushing down on it – there is a video of this flex in my article.

Alt Bar Grips

Your grip choice is arguably just as important as the alt bar itself.

One of my top recommendations for alt bar grips is thick silicone grips. These super soft grips will not only damp vibration coming up from the road or trail but conform nicely to your hands.

My two favourite silicone grips are the Wolf Tooth Fat Paw lock-on and ESI Extra Chunky.

My other recommendation is grips with a shaped design. These grips have been optimised for large backsweep angles, which allows your hands and wrists to sit at a very natural angle. These grip designs also often have a ridge in the middle that cups inside your palm, and a rearward wing that distributes hand pressure across a larger surface area.

Look out for the Ergon GC1, XLC GR-S22 or SQlab 710 for an extra comfortable design on a handlebar with lots of backsweep angle.

Handlebars and Bags

And lastly, make sure to think about how your luggage will integrate with the bars you choose.

A wide straight section next to the stem is ideal for mounting bikepacking handlebar packs (eg. Revelate) and touring handlebar bags (eg. Ortlieb). Alt bars with shapes that sweep forward before starting their backsweep can especially create clearance issues with wider bags.

You’ll notice that some of these handlebars feature a loop. This provides more hand positions and space for accessories, and can also serve as a small front rack.

Summary

Now that you have a good idea about everything alt bars, it’s time to head over to my article that features the 13 Best Alt Bars For Bikepacking and Touring.

I’ve narrowed down the best alt bar picks with varying backsweep angles, rises, and more. With multiple options at the US $50 price point, you should find something in your budget and for your needs.

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The post How To Choose The Most Comfortable Alt Bars For Bikepacking & Touring appeared first on CYCLINGABOUT.com.

Elite racer Andrew L’Esperance rode to 21st place at UNBOUND using a prototype Fox gravel fork with full aero fairings. Over the 9+ hours out on the course, Andrew averaged a rather sprightly speed of approximately 22mph (35kph).

Aerodynamics matters a great deal at these speeds and distances, so it’s no surprise that we’re seeing aero fairings on gravel bikes.

Let’s take a closer look at this prototype Fox gravel fork.

The Aerodynamic Fox Gravel Fork

The fork is covered in Fox RAD stickers. RAD stands for Racing Application Development, a research/testing arm of Fox that works with pro riders to develop new suspension fork tech.

If you look carefully, Andrew’s fork has been modified to allow the front brake cable to run from inside the stem, and into the fork steerer. It then exits out the bottom of the steerer and is taped down to the brake caliper.

Much more obvious are the aero fairings taped to the back of each fork leg. This gives the fork a whole new look and should allow gravel racers to ride faster with the same effort.

Will An Aero Fox Gravel Fork Make A Difference?

In short, yes.

Cylinder shapes have high drag force for their size. This is because cylinders are quite blunt in shape, and the airflow separates from behind the cylinder’s surface creating both a low-pressure area as well as a turbulent wake. All of these factors contribute to the high overall drag.

Just look at the difference in size between the streamlined aerofoil shape and the wire in the above diagram. The diameter of the wire is one-tenth of the aerofoil, however, both of these shapes have the same aerodynamic drag.

It should come as no surprise that forming fork legs into streamlined shapes would promote more efficient airflow. When you do the calculations, the drag reduction to the Fox gravel fork could theoretically be up to 90% – although this fork shape would be completely impractical.

The Fox 32 Taper-Cast Fork

While we’re here, let’s chat about the Fox 32 Taper-Cast fork.

At 1226 grams, the Fox 32 TC is one of the lightest gravel suspension forks available. Fox keeps the 32 TC weight low by employing a reverse arch crown design. This arch sits behind the tallest part of the wheel and essentially allows Fox to reduce mass without sacrificing any fork stiffness.

In addition, the bottom of the fork legs reveals a truss-like design to reduce weight further.

When it comes to damping adjustment, the Fox 32 TC offers more than most. There is a rebound adjuster at the bottom of the fork, and a lever ring at the top of the fork with three low-speed compression damping positions (open, medium, and firm). The compression damping can then be tweaked further using a second dial inside the lever ring.

The fork can be set up with 40 or 50mm of suspension travel, will clear a 700C x 50mm tyre, has 160mm and 180mm brake rotor compatibility, and is available with a 45mm and 50mm offset/rake option.

The Fox 32 Taper-Cast Gravel Fork costs between US $769 and $949, depending on the model. See more at RideFox.com.

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Spotted: Prototype Fox Gravel Fork With Aero Fairings

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The post Spotted: Prototype Fox Gravel Fork With Aero Fairings appeared first on CYCLINGABOUT.com.

• Best Tubeless Sealant For MTB Tires: Orange Seal Regular
• Best Tubeless Sealant For Road & Gravel Tires: Peaty’s Holeshot Biofibre
• Best Tubeless Sealant For The Price: Squirt SEAL
• Best Tubeless Sealant For Global Availability: Stans Original
• Best Tubeless Sealant For Race Situations: Stans Race Day

The Long Version

I’ve been on a quest to find the best tubeless sealant products for two decades now, and today, I’m excited to be sharing the results of my findings!

Not only have these tire sealants all been independently tested to perform better than the rest, but I’ve performance-tested them myself on various bicycle journeys across countries and continents.

You’ll find top-rated sealants here for low-pressure mountain bike tires, mid-pressure gravel bike tires, and high-pressure road bike tires.

If you want to analyze the puncture test data for yourself, you’ll find handy tables of the 48 different tire sealants at the bottom of this resource.

But before we get to the best tubeless sealant products, let’s learn a thing or two about sealant first.

Tubeless Sealant FAQ

What is Tubeless Sealant?

Tubeless sealant is a liquid that sloshes around in the space between your tire and rim. This liquid replaces a typical bicycle inner tube, creating an airtight seal inside your tire.

Tubeless tire sealant also repairs small punctures while you ride, often without you even knowing.

How Does Tubeless Sealant Work?

When a puncture occurs, the air pressure inside your tire pushes the sealant toward the puncture site. Through both a chemical and physical process, the sealant will then clot the hole after being exposed to the outside air.

Small, suspended particles (particulate) inside the sealant are designed to create additional surface area for the liquid base to clot around. This clotting process can repair holes up to 6 or 7mm (1/4″) in your tire but it also plays an important role in maintaining the airtight seals between your rim, tire, and air valve.

How Do We Benchmark Tubeless Sealant Performance?

The best way to benchmark tubeless tire sealants is to punch holes of different sizes in a tire and check to see if the sealant can repair the puncture.

If the repair is successful, we can measure the air loss. The sealant with the least air loss for a given hole size is regarded as the best.

Tests in a laboratory are the most accurate at taking measurements, however, they do not take into account the forces on the tire while riding.

Tires will stretch and pull apart while riding (especially under cornering loads) so I believe that outdoor tests provide a more realistic impression of sealant performance, even if the measurements are less accurate.

The gold standard in outdoor testing is conducted more than one month after the sealant has been installed. This tests the performance of the sealant after it has degraded a bit, which is a more realistic riding circumstance than a fresh installation.

Why Does Tubeless Tire Sealant Usually Use Latex?

Almost all tubeless sealants use latex. Latex is an extremely stretchy material that, even in very small quantities, can hold back both liquid and air.

There are other alternatives to latex, but they almost always test to be less effective.

How Long Does Tubeless Sealant Last?

Most sealants are effective inside your tires for between two and five months.

How long the sealant lasts depends on many factors, including how often you ride, how much has escaped through punctures, the temperatures and humidity in your area, and the brand and model of sealant you are using.

With some sealants, you’ll find dried latex inside the tire after a few months as the additives will have evaporated from the formula. With other sealants, you will find the latex will have all been absorbed by your tire, leaving the additives.

Some tubeless tire sealants will stay liquid for longer as they are formulated with higher percentages of additives. But performance takes a hit – they are thinner and take longer to coagulate around punctures.

What Temperature Range Does Tubeless Sealant Work In?

Most tire sealants will perform between -10C/14F and +50C/122F, however, some sealants have been specially formulated to be effective right down to -30C/-20F.

Can You Use CO₂ Cartridges with Tubeless Sealant?

CO₂ cartridges can be used in emergencies with tubeless tire sealant.

However, if the cold blast of gas goes directly into the sealant it can cause lumps inside latex-based sealants. Make sure to only inflate your tire with the valve at the top position (12 o’clock).

Exposure to CO₂ for multiple days can additionally cause the sealant to degrade, decreasing its longevity. If you inflate with CO₂, make sure to replace it with regular air as soon as possible.

Can You Refresh Tubeless Tire Sealant Through The Air Valve?

Thinner tubeless tire sealants can be refreshed through the air valve.

Sealants with larger, suspended particles are not suitable for valve installation. Instead, you will need to break the tire bead from the rim or the air valve will clog.

Can You Use Tubeless Sealant With High-Pressure Tires?

Most tubeless sealants will repair small holes in road bike tires. However, when it comes to larger punctures, the data suggests that performance varies significantly between brands.

When we analyse the properties of the sealants that perform best on road bike tires, it’s clear there should be large suspended particles in the sealant to clot the larger holes. These particles can seal a big hole in a high-pressure tire much quicker and with little air loss.

Why Does Tubeless Sealant Seep Through Tire Sidewalls?

This is the latex part of the sealant getting soaked up by tires with porous sidewalls. It will eventually stop when the tire is airtight.

The good news is that tire companies are getting better at reducing seeping. But expect tires with very thin, supple sidewalls to be most prone to this phenomenon.

If you notice this occurring in your tires, make sure to add an extra 30 ml of sealant (1 fl oz) after a few days. This replenishes any latex lost and will ensure your sealant can perform properly.

Which Products Were Puncture Tested To Find The Best Tubeless Sealant?

I assessed the data from the following 48 tubeless sealant products:

Comparing The Five Best Tubeless Sealants

1. Orange Seal Regular Tubeless Sealant

The Best Tubeless Sealant For MTB Tires

The best tubeless sealant for mountain bikes is Orange Seal Regular. This thin sealant performs extremely well in all independent tests, resulting in very little air loss on punctures of all sizes.

Orange Seal Regular is also one of the very few sealants that can genuinely seal up a huge hole without even getting off your bike.

This was my sealant of choice while I was mountain biking during the pandemic. The city where I was living (Oaxaca, Mexico) is a notably thorny region, and I am happy to report that Orange Seal always got on top of sealing holes.

Orange Seal films your tire in the first month, so expect around 50% of the liquid to be lost in this process. The remaining liquid typically lasts between 1-3 months longer depending on the environmental conditions it’s exposed to.

Lab Test Data

How much air pressure is lost with Orange Seal Regular?
3mm Puncture: 2.1 psi @ 22 psi – 3rd of 11 (AMB)
3mm Puncture: 0.3 psi @ 25 psi – 2nd of 8 (Bicycling)
3mm Puncture: 0.8 psi @ 20 psi – 4th of 5 (Singletracks)
3mm Puncture: 3.0 psi @ 27 psi – 3rd of 20 (Velo Vert)
4mm Puncture: 3.9 psi @ 25 psi – 2nd of 8 (Bicycling)
6mm Puncture: 3.2 psi @ 22 psi – 1st of 11 (AMB)

When we look at the MTB tire puncture tests, Orange Seal Regular has seriously impressive puncture repair characteristics. In every puncture test I could find, this sealant closed the puncture sites with very little pressure loss. Even with a 6mm cut, there was just 3.2 psi lost – few sealants can master that!

It’s worth noting the Endurance version of Orange Seal will last significantly longer in your tires, and there’s even a Subzero version that’s formulated for extreme cold temperatures.

The downside to these sealant formulations is that you trade off some sealing performance. According to the Bicycling data, Orange Seal Endurance is ok at dealing with small holes, but not so good when it comes to bigger holes (a plug will be necessary).

Keep in mind you can mix in Orange Seal Regular and Endurance together if you want to trade a bit of performance for some longevity.

Best Deals For Orange Seal Regular

• $35 on Amazon (946 ml bottle)
• $21 on Amazon (473 ml bottle)
• $17 on Amazon (237 ml bottle with valve injector)
• $19 on Amazon (Professional injector syringe for installing or removing sealant through valve)

2. Peaty’s Holeshot Biofibre Tubeless Tyre Sealant

The Best Tubeless Sealant For Gravel & Road Tires

Peaty’s Holeshot Biofibre is thicker than other sealants on this list, especially those with a latex base. It contains lots of suspended particles, which results in a product that’s best suited to road and gravel bike tires with high air pressures.

The particulate is highly visible inside Peaty’s sealant. These biodegradable particles are made from starches as well as a special form of cellulose that has been sourced from responsibly managed eucalyptus plantations.

Peaty’s claims Holeshot Biofibre to be compatible with CO2 (in contrast to other sealants), and despite being quite thick, this sealant can still be installed through your valve. The reusable trail bag (120 ml) is a great way to get the sealant into your tires – simply remove your valve core and squeeze the sealant in.

Lab Test Data

How much air pressure is lost with Peaty’s Holeshot?
1.5mm Puncture: 1.0 psi @ 87 psi – 1st of 11 (Fiets)
3mm Puncture: 18.9 psi @ 29 psi – 5th of 11 (Fiets)
4mm Puncture: 21.8 psi @ 29 psi – 2nd of 11 (Fiets)
5mm Puncture: 0.1 psi @ 40 psi – 1st of 18 (Off-Road.cc)

According to the data, Peaty’s Holeshot outperforms all other sealants at the gravel and road bike tire pressures.

In the Fiets test, Peaty’s sealant lost just 1.0 psi from a starting pressure of 87 psi when stabbed with a 1.5mm thick nail – the tire then later held 101 psi with its repair. In the Off-Road.cc test, it repaired a 5mm cut at 40 psi with just 0.1 psi lost!

Peaty’s Holeshot Biofibre is less impressive at mountain bike tire pressures, so I’d recommend some of the other sealant options for low air pressures.

Best Deals For Peaty’s Holeshot Sealant

• $36 on Amazon (1000ml bottle)
• $29 on Amazon (500ml bottle)
• $7 on Amazon (Re-fillable 120ml pouch that attaches to valve)
• $19 on Amazon (Professional injector syringe for installing or removing sealant through valve)

3. Squirt SEAL Tyre Sealant

The Best Tubeless Sealant For The Price

As you know by now, large particles in tubeless sealant create additional surface area for the liquid to coagulate around. The problem is the particles can sometimes settle at the bottom of sealant bottles, making them hard to pour into your tire at the appropriate ratio.

To solve this problem, Squirt SEAL comes in two parts: the liquid sealant, and the BeadBlock particles. You will need to mix them at a rate of 3-5ml particles (one cap) per 100ml-150ml of sealant.

A cool thing is that you can customise the ratio according to your riding conditions. For example, if you were going somewhere with a high chance of punctures, you could add a bit more BeadBlock.

We used Squirt SEAL with BeadBlock on our 3,000km bike tour through Outback Australia, and never needed to plug a hole.

The only thing to note is that the particles require a good quantity of liquid sealant to transport them to the puncture site, so make sure to check your levels periodically. I’ve also found the sealant to disappear quicker than most, so I tend to use 20-30 ml more Squirt in my tires than comparable sealants.

You can top up the liquid sealant through your valve, but you’ll need to unseat your tire to install the BeadBlock particles. That said, Squirt makes a 150ml-sized container with a slightly different sealant formulation that can go through your valve. This product is primarily designed for top-ups out on the trail.

Lab Test Data

How much air pressure is lost with Squirt SEAL?
1.5mm Puncture – 3.6 psi @ 87 psi – 3rd of 11 (Fiets)
3mm Puncture – 1.2 psi @ 22 psi – 1st of 11 (AMB)
4mm Puncture – 2.8 psi @ 29 psi – 1st of 11 (Fiets)
5mm Puncture – 9.6 psi @ 29 psi – 1st of 11 (Fiets)
6mm Puncture – 10.9 psi @ 22 psi – 8th of 11 (AMB)
6mm Puncture – 14.2 psi @ 29 psi – 1st of 14 (Fiets)

In terms of performance, Squirt SEAL is one of the best according to the lab test data.

Squirt SEAL lost the least pressure in the 3mm MTB puncture test by AMB (out of 11 sealants), and in the Fiets test, it lost the least pressure in the majority of the MTB puncture tests conducted (out of 14 sealants).

Squirt SEAL gets a perfect score for road bike tires. This sealant lost 3.6 psi from a starting pressure of 87 psi in the Fiets test when stabbed with a 1.5mm thick nail. The tire then later held 101 psi with its repair.

Best Deals For Squirt SEAL

• $30 on Amazon (1000 ml bottle)
• $15 on Amazon (150 ml bottle)
• $25 on Amazon (120 ml with a pouch that attaches to valve)
• $19 on Amazon (Professional injector syringe for installing or removing sealant through valve)

4. Stans Original Tubeless Sealant

The Best Tubeless Sealant For Global Availability

Stans produce two versions of their tubeless tire sealant: Original and Race Day.

Stans Original has the best global availability of any sealant, and for a good reason – it works very well at air pressures in the 15 to 40 psi range (MTB and gravel tires).

I started using Stans almost 20 years ago on my mountain bikes. For the first decade, this sealant was much better than everything else, but nowadays, the competition has caught up.

Laura and I are currently using Stans Original on our off-road journey through Namibia, South Africa, Lesotho, Eswatini, and Mozambique. It has been 9,000km so far, and we’ve been puncture-free despite the excess acacia thorns and goat heads littered around the place.

A huge advantage to Stans Original is that it’s one of the least viscous sealants around (ie. it’s runny). This makes it easy to install through your valve, and easy to syringe out of your tires too (great for swapping tires).

Stans Original sealant also lasts longer than most. When we recently opened our tires up after four months of cycling in hot conditions, there was still sealant in its liquid form, and no dried latex to be seen.

I should note that Stans also manufacture Schwalbe Doc Blue sealant, and I suspect it’s a near-identical formula based on the Fiets.nl lab data below.

Lab Test Data

How much air pressure is lost with Stans Original?
3mm Puncture: 2.3 psi @ 22 psi – 4th of 11 (AMB)
3mm Puncture: 4.2 psi @ 25 psi – 5th of 8 (Bicycling)
3mm Puncture: 0.3 psi @ 20 psi – 1st of 5 (Singletracks)
4mm Puncture: 11.2 psi @ 25 psi – 5th of 8 (Bicycling)
5mm Puncture: 2.0 psi @ 40 psi – 8th of 18 (Off-Road.cc)
6mm Puncture: 8.2 psi @ 22 psi – 5th of 11 (AMB)

The Stans Original puncture repair performance is great for any smaller cuts to your MTB or gravel tires. With minimal air loss, you can simply continue your ride without needing to get your pump out.

For bigger cuts in the 4-6mm size range, it doesn’t perform as well, and you likely will need to use a plug. The Stans Dart plug is a cool product that creates a chemical reaction with the sealant for a super strong repair.

Stans Original falls flat when it comes to sealing tires at high road bike pressures. In the Fiets.nl test it only just sealed the road bike tire, but lost 77 out of 87 psi in the process. When the tire was inflated back up, this repair couldn’t hold high pressure.

Best Deals For Stans Original

• $33 on Amazon (946ml bottle)
• $20 on Amazon (473ml bottle)
• $8 on Amazon (59ml bottle that can pour into tubeless valve)
• $19 on Amazon (Professional injector syringe for installing or removing sealant)

5. Stans Race Day Sealant

Best Tubeless Sealant For Race Situations

Stans Race Day uses twice as much particulate as Stans Original, which allows it to seal big holes with the least air loss. It’s one of the very few that can top Orange Seal Regular in the MTB puncture tests, and it’s proven to be very effective with high-pressure road tires too.

The downside to Stans Race Day is that the high amount of particulate can clog your valve. As a result, it must be installed directly into the tire over the bead.

This sealant also dries out quicker than most. Some people report zero liquid in just 4-6 weeks in hot conditions, which puts this sealant in the high-maintenance sealant category (yep, it’s race day use).

That said, Race Day and Original can be mixed, so perhaps a 50/50 or 70/30 combination of the two would provide a better balance between high performance and longevity.

Lab Test Data

How much air pressure is lost with Stans Race Day?
1mm Puncture: 0.2 psi @ 29 psi – 1st of 11 (Fiets)
2mm Puncture: 0.4 psi @ 29 psi – 1st of 11 (Fiets)
3mm Puncture: 2.3 psi @ 25 psi – 4th of 8 (Bicycling)
4mm Puncture: 3.0 psi @ 25 psi – 1st of 8 (Bicycling)

5mm Puncture: 1.2 psi @ 40 psi – 7th of 18 (Off-Road.cc)
1.5mm Puncture: 5.5 psi @ 87 psi – 6th of 11 (Fiets)

If you’re happy to trade some longevity for additional performance, Stans Race Day is among the best at MTB tire pressures.

It came in first place in multiple MTB tire puncture tests, losing just 0.2 to 0.4 psi in the small cut tests. When it came to Bicycling’s 4mm puncture test, it lost only 3.0 psi, which is a clear step up in performance compared to Stans Original (11.2 psi in the same test).

Additionally, Stans Race Day lost 1.2 psi in the gravel tire test and was able to seal a road bike tire quite effectively. It undoubtedly deserves its slot in this shortlist.

Best Deals For Stans Race Day Sealant

• $41 on Amazon (946 ml bottle)

Summary

When we inspect the puncture test data, the best tubeless sealant rises to the top! I’m certain you’ll be happy with any of the sealants I’ve recommended.

Orange Seal Regular stands out as the best for MTB. It closes small holes with minimal air loss and impressively seals the 5 and 6 mm holes with just a few psi missing. The only slight area of weakness is that it doesn’t last quite as long as other sealants, but we’ve found more than half is still left a few months in.

Peaty’s Holeshot Biofibre is a top performer at the gravel and road bike tire pressures. It lost the least amount of air pressure in all mid-to-high pressure puncture tests I could find. That said, Peaty’s seems to lose more air than most sealants in mountain bike tires (perhaps because it’s so thick) so I’d recommend picking another sealant for low-pressure tires. Another benefit of Peaty’s is that it’s one of the longest-lasting sealants you can buy.

Squirt SEAL has the lowest cost per 100 ml, it seals big holes, and all data suggest it can repair small-to-medium punctures quickly with the least air loss. I like that the BeadBlock particles are separate as it means you can add them when you install your tire, and later just top up liquid through the air valve. The only downside to SEAL is that it seems to lose more air than other sealants in the big cut tests (5 to 6mm), and the liquid latex seems to evaporate quicker than some.

Stans Original and Stans Race Day are right up there too. Original strikes a great balance between longevity, performance, and the ability to install through a valve. If you’re willing to trade some longevity for performance, Race Day seals some of the biggest holes with the least air loss. There is a reason why Stans sealants have been the most popular for two decades now.

Lab Test Data

MTB Tire Puncture Test @ 22 psi (AMBMag.com.au)

The AMB Mag puncture test is perhaps my favourite here, as it provides the most useful information to the everyday cyclist who isn’t regularly changing their sealant.

AMB Mag tested 11 different sealants on 11 different wheels – all using the same tire. A big difference between this test and others is that they rode with the wheels for 36 days before testing the puncture repair performance, which factors in sealant longevity (most tests are conducted with fresh sealant). There were no punctures in the test period.

For the puncture test itself, each tire was pumped to 22 psi (1.5 bar) and then stabbed with a sharp 3mm tool near the transition edge blocks. The wheels were then ridden on a mix of surfaces with a timer on. AMB Mag measured how long it took before the puncture was sealed, and the final pressure was recorded too.

After inflating the tire back up to 22 psi, the second test was a 6mm cut on the opposite side of the wheel (180 degrees from the last puncture). The wheels were once again ridden and the puncture seal time recorded.

You can read the AMB test HERE.

MTB Tire Puncture Test @ 25 psi (Bicycling.com)

The Bicycling test is the most scientific of the lot as they used a special test rig to accurately measure air pressure loss.

They used the same wheel and tire model, installed the manufacturer’s recommended amount of sealant, and inflated it to 25 psi. To consistently replicate punctures, they connected the wheel to a drill and had the wheel spun at 10 mph (16 kph) for each test.

They then punctured each tire with a 3mm and then a 4mm nail, which was ripped from its hole at 10mph. The wheel was spun for 30 seconds with the air pressure monitored via the Quarq TyreWiz app. The result you see is the air pressure loss after this time.

If the puncture hadn’t sealed after 30 seconds, they simply stopped the tire in the rig and let the sealant pool to stop the airflow.

You can see the Bicycling test HERE.

MTB Tire Puncture Test @ 20 psi (Singletracks.com)

Jeff at Singletracks went about his MTB tubeless sealant test in a slightly different way.

Jeff used a Vittoria Syerra tire mounted to a wheel with 4 oz / 120 ml of sealant. He inflated the tire to 20 psi, then poked a 3mm hole in the tire using a pick tool. Upon removing the pick, he spun the hole to the bottom and jiggled the tire a couple of times until the puncture began to seal.

Jeff then cycled for roughly one minute on a test track loop that included a three-foot jump, a short rock garden, multiple sharp corners, a large log roll, and finally a climb back to the top.

He measured the pressure in the tire using a digital gauge immediately after the test loop as well as after 10 minutes with the hole at the bottom. After the test, Jeff measured how much sealant was left inside the tire.

You can see the Singletracks test HERE.

MTB Tire Puncture Test @ 29 psi (Fiets.nl)

Fiets used a Maxxis Ikon mountain bike tire with the quantity of sealant recommended by the sealant manufacturer. They then inflated the tire to 2 bar / 29 psi and drilled precise holes in it.

Fiets acknowledges that drilling puts a perfectly round hole in the tire, which is usually not the case when you get a puncture (the tire tends to sever apart, leaving a few strands for the sealant to coagulate around). But this technique is acceptable as all sealants must close the same-sized holes.

They started with a 1 mm drill bit and gradually increased the hole diameters until the sealant could no longer close them. After each drilled hole they measured the lost pressure and reset the tire to 2 bar (29 psi).

You can see the Fiets test HERE.

MTB Tire Puncture Test @ 26.8 psi (Velo Vert)

Velo Vert used a Hutchinson Toro 2.1″ mountain bike tyre with the quantity of sealant recommended by the sealant manufacturer. They then inflated the tyre to 1.85 bar / 26.8 psi, took the measurement using a TireWiz, and spun the wheel for two minutes before the puncture test to ensure the sealant was well distributed inside the tyre.

They stabbed the tyre with a sharp 1.5mm object and pedalled the bike on a trainer for five minutes. They then measured the pressure loss. They repeated the process with a 3mm object and took a final pressure reading after three hours.

You can see the Velo Vert test HERE.

MTB Tire Puncture Test @ 29.0 psi (MTB Foligno)

MTB Foligno used a Maxxis Ardent 2.25″ mountain bike tire with 50ml of sealant installed (new sealant for each test). The tire was inflated to 2.0 bar / 29.0 psi, a puncture was made to the tire, and the pressure loss was recorded after the hole had been sealed.

These punctures were made using 1.3, 3.2mm and 5mm screwdrivers, as well as a 3 and 5mm drill bit. The 5mm drill bit could not be repaired by any sealant so I didn’t include this information in the table.

You can see the MTB Foligno test HERE.

Gravel Tire Puncture Test @ 40 psi (Off-Road.cc)

Off-Road.cc conducted their puncture tests on a Halo GXC gravel tire measuring in at 47 mm. The tire sealant is added in the amount suggested by the manufacturer, and the tire is inflated to 40 psi. The wheel is spun sufficiently to ensure the sealant is distributed evenly throughout each tire.

The tire’s carcass is then punctured with a 5mm diameter nail, and the remaining air pressure is measured with a digital pressure gauge.

You can see the Off-Road.cc tests HERE.

Road Bike Tire Puncture Test @ 87 psi (Fiets.nl)

Fiets used Mavic Yksion Pro UST road bike tire for this test. They inserted a nail with a 1.5 mm diameter, inflated the tire to 6 bar (87 psi), and removed the nail. They gave the wheel a good spin, waited for the puncture to seal, and later measured the pressure loss.

After the tires had repaired the 1.5 mm hole, they re-inflated them to 7 bar (101 psi), where only half of the sealants were able to withstand this pressure.

You can see the Fiets test HERE.

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The post The 5 Best Tubeless Sealant Products According To Science (Lab Tests) appeared first on CYCLINGABOUT.com.

It has been designed by Cane Creek to be especially active over high-frequency dirt road chatter, which should smoothen out surface variations, and result in you enjoying bumpy roads that little bit more.

While the main purpose of the Invert is to improve the comfort and control of a gravel bike, it also has a better aesthetic compared to most gravel suspension forks available. The Invert’s thicker shape at the crown blends into the head tube, and the thinner shape at the bottom blends nicely into the dropouts.

Today, we’ll be covering all aspects of this unique carbon fork in a series of frequently asked questions.

What Are The Specs of the Cane Creek Invert Fork?

• Wheel Size: 700C
• Spring Type: Air
• Offset: 45mm
• Thru Axle: 12 x 100mm
• Weight: 990 to 1,113 grams
• Suspension Travel: 30 or 40mm
• Axle to Crown: 425 or 435 mm
• Steerer Tube Size: Tapered 1-1/8″ to 1-1/2”
• Brake Rotor: Flat Mount 160mm, or 180mm with an adapter
• Maximum Tire Width: 50mm (2.0”) with 6mm of clearance on either side

What is the Benefit of an Inverted Suspension Fork Design?

Inverted suspension forks can have a very high stiffness-to-weight ratio because the thickest and stiffest portion of the fork is located where leverage is greatest – near the head tube.

In addition, the seals and bushings are located at the bottom of the upper legs, which means they are always sitting in oil. This keeps things running smoothly, and the upside-down design also ensures that gravity can’t work any grit inside the sliding components.

There’s also less unsprung mass with inverted forks. This means that the section of the fork that’s constantly moving up and down is as light as possible, resulting in the fork being extra responsive to bumps.

An upside-down fork also has a better aesthetic for modern gravel bikes. Most gravel suspension forks look like trimmed-down mountain bike forks. In contrast, the Invert’s thicker shape at the top blends into the head tube, and the thinner shape at the bottom blends into the dropouts. It’s certainly more elegant than most suspension forks (except for the HiRide Sterra).

Aren’t Inverted Suspension Fork Stanctions Susceptible to Damage?

The stanchions are low to the ground and could be susceptible to damage should you fall sideways onto a rock. But the official word from Cane Creek is that they never had a single instance of scratching through the development process.

How is the Cane Creek Invert Fork Manufactured?

The structure itself is quite impressive.

To keep the fork less than one kilogram (2.2lbs), the fork uppers consist of a massive carbon fibre crown and steerer, which are both stiff and lightweight. The carbon components are then bonded to two aluminum upper legs post-molding. Aluminium is used in this instance to get the machining to the necessary manufacturing tolerances.

The fork lowers (stanctions and dropouts) are forged and machined out of single pieces of aluminium.

What is the Suspension Travel of the Cane Creek Invert?

The Invert has different suspension travel, depending on the model you choose:
Cane Creek Invert CS – 40mm travel
Cane Creek Invert SL – 30mm travel

Unfortunately, you must decide what travel amount you want at the time of purchase as both forks use different lengths of air springs.

How Much Does the Invert Gravel Fork Weigh Compared to Other Forks?

The Invert SL is 990 grams (2.2 lbs), which is just 470 grams (1 lb) heavier than a rigid carbon fork of similar length. With its longer travel and lockout switch, the Cane Creek Invert CS weighs in at 1,113 grams (2.5 lbs).

To put these numbers in perspective, here are some other suspension fork weights:
Lauf Grit SL – 960 grams
Cane Creek Invert SL – 990 grams
Cane Creek Invert CS – 1,113 grams
Fox 32 TC – 1,226 grams
HiRide Sterra – 1,300 grams
Rockshox Rudy – 1,317 grams
Cannondale Lefty Oliver – 1,340 grams
KS GTC – 1,385 grams
MRP Baxter – 1,420 grams
State All-Road – 1,600 grams
SR Suntour GVX – 1,628 grams

Does the Invert Gravel Suspension Fork Have A Lock Out Switch?

The Cane Creek Invert CS has a button at the crown that engages a firmer suspension setting. This is not a hard lockout, it just firms things up a lot.

It’s worth noting that it’s not possible to add a climbing switch to the SL as the fork upper is different.

Why Does The Invert Have No Damper?

The Cane Creek Invert doesn’t use a damper as it’s (a) short travel, and (b) primarily designed for non-technical terrain.

Suspension dampers control the speed at which your front wheel moves up or down. They prevent oscillations and movements by dissipating energy from the spring inside the fork.

Dampers tend to be essential on long-travel suspension forks (eg. 140mm) but are not strictly necessary with short-travel forks. In fact, when a fork doesn’t use a damper, you (the rider) can function as the damper on moderately rough, non-technical terrain.

Our Comfort Lab tests consistently find that the least-damped products are usually the most effective at reducing high-frequency vibration over fast, repetitive bumps. This is because the spring can move up and down almost unimpeded when there is no damper, maximising rider comfort at the handlebar.

The best comfort-improving products we’ve tested include the Kinekt suspension stem (no damping) and Specialized FutureShock (minimal damping).

Can You Ride The Invert Fork On Singletrack?

The downside to not having a damper is that the fork cannot remove as much energy after bigger impacts. This alone makes this fork better for gravel roads rather than bumpy singletrack trails.

You can expect this fork to feel a bit less ‘planted’ on rougher terrain compared to a suspension fork with a damper.

Does the Cane Creek Invert Top Out?

BikeRumor reports that after bunny hopping over an obstacle the “fork rebounds at full speed” and that they could “hear and feel the top out”. It didn’t seem to be a big deal to them, but it was “definitely noticeable”.

How Do You Change the Spring Rate?

You can change the spring rate using a standard shock pump. Cane Creek recommends starting with 95% of your body weight (lbs/psi). That means a 200 lb rider would require 190 psi.

Are There Any Other Adjustments You Can Make?

There is no compression or rebound speed adjustment. But you can adjust the progressivity of the spring.

Three volume spacers can changed inside the fork depending on how quickly you want the firmness to ramp up before the fork bottoms out. These should be changed per the surface roughness of the roads you ride, and your riding style.

More aggressive riders will likely want more volume spacers for more progressivity.

What is the Price of the Cane Creek Invert Suspension Fork?

Invert CS with the climb switch and 40mm travel: US $1,199 / AU $2,034 / £1,200 / €TBC
Invert SL with no climb switch and 30mm travel: US $1,099 / AU $1848 / £1,100 / €TBC

What is the Maximum Rider Weight?

You can weigh up to 113kg/250lbs and use the Cane Creek Invert suspension fork.

Does the Cane Creek Invert Gravel Fork Require Servicing?

The Invert requires regular maintenance like most suspension forks.

Cane Creek recommends replacing the oil inside the fork every 50 hours of use. This can be done at home with a basic 12-notch, 46mm bottom bracket spanner tool (Race Face Cinch or SRAM DUB). The service procedure involves draining the oil and wiping everything clean, which supposedly takes minutes. Each leg requires just 5 ml of 15 wt oil.

Every 100 hours Cane Creek recommends a full rebuild. This must be done by Cane Creek, or at one of their service centres located all around the globe.

What’s the Warranty on Cane Creek Suspension Forks?

The warranty lasts two years from the date of purchase, and it covers materials and workmanship. Like other suspension products, by not performing regular services you can void the warranty.

Where is the Cane Creek Invert Manufactured?

Production parts are made in Taiwan before being sent back and assembled at their facility in Fletcher, North Carolina (USA).

What’s The Axle-To-Crown Length of the Invert Fork?

This fork is longer than many carbon rigid gravel forks.

The Axle-to-Crown (ATC) is 425mm for the Invert SL (30mm travel) and 435mm for the Invert CS (40mm travel).

If you install Invert on a bike with an ATC of less than 420mm, be aware that the fork will raise the front end of the bike, shorten the effective reach to the handlebars, and slacken the head tube angle.

If your bike has a very low ATC (less than 400mm), the Invert SL will affect your bike’s geometry less as it’s the shortest-length fork.

What Gravel Bikes Are Suspension-Corrected For the Invert Fork?

For a list of suspension-corrected gravel bikes, click HERE.

What Gravel Frames Fit the Invert Fork?

The Cane Creek Invert fork fits gravel frames with a standard tapered 1-1/8” to 1-1/2” fork. Most gravel bikes in 2024 are compatible with standard tapered forks.

When Will The Cane Creek Invert Be Available?

Cane Creek says the Invert fork will be available from June/July 2024.

The post The Cane Creek Invert is a 990g Gravel Suspension Fork With No Damper appeared first on CYCLINGABOUT.com.

But vibration test data coming out of the CYCLINGABOUT Comfort Lab show that these stems are very effective at reducing the jarring impact of bumps, potholes, and rough roads.

Not only are suspension stems comfortable, but they are also lightweight, reliable, and able to be installed on almost any bike. I’ve even found these stems to be hugely beneficial on bicycles with very wide tyres.

In this article, we will examine the advantages and disadvantages of suspension stems. I will then explain the different spring and linkage designs, and finally, I’ll tell you about the best products available. I’ll be lumping the Specialized Future Shock into this article too, as it functions similarly.

Let’s start with the advantages of suspension stems when compared to rigid stems.

Suspension Stem Advantages (Compared to Rigid Stems)

Vibrations coming up from the road dissipate in your body causing fatigue. This manifests as discomfort including muscle soreness, hand numbness, and neck and shoulder pain.

A suspension stem increases your comfort by removing a significant portion of these vibrations. Our tests with an accelerometer show a vibration reduction of up to 30% over a rigid stem. Keep in mind that vibration exposure is greater on longer rides, so the more time you spend on your bike, the more comfort you have to gain.

Suspension stems also reduce the impact force on your hands. This means you don’t need to grip your bars as tight over bumps, allowing for more effortless braking and control.

These stems might even make your bike faster. This is because the stem can absorb more of a bump, minimising your upper body movement.

A great thing about suspension stems is that they can fit all bikes. You can simply remove your rigid stem, and swap one in.

Ok, let’s now look at the advantages suspension stems have over suspension forks.

Suspension Stem Advantages (Compared to Suspension Forks)

Suspension stems are often better than forks at absorbing the high-frequency vibration that you experience on fast gravel roads. This is because they require very little damping, which allows them to move virtually uninhibited over fast, repetitive bumps.

They also require virtually no maintenance, and their performance doesn’t deteriorate over time. In comparison, more complex suspension forks require regular servicing to ensure they function well.

Suspension stems are lightweight too, typically adding just 100 or 200 grams to a rigid bike, whereas a suspension fork often adds a full kilogram (2.2lb).

At US $100 to $300, suspension stems are a relatively cheap upgrade. Consider that good suspension forks start at US $400 and max out at over $1500!

There is also no measurable loss in power transfer when you accelerate. In comparison, suspension forks are stimulated on every pedal stroke, losing energy from the system.

These stems are a notably aerodynamic way to achieve suspension on a bicycle. Round suspension fork legs simply don’t slice through the air as effectively as a bladed rigid fork.

And lastly, swapping out a stem is much quicker than changing a fork. This is a useful advantage if you only need suspension on your bike very occasionally.

With the advantages all laid out, suspension stems are looking pretty great. So, what are the downsides?

Suspension Stem Disadvantages (Compared To Rigid Stems)

Most suspension stems bob up and down a bit while you ride. But given the 10 to 20mm range of motion, it’s not usually a big deal.

It’s worth noting that suspension stems activate much less than you’d think while sprinting, as you tend to pull up and push down on the bars at the same time.

Suspension stems are not available in super short lengths. This is a packaging issue – the pivot must be between the steerer and the handlebar. Currently, the shortest stems available are 70mm long.

And lastly, suspension stems are not exactly elegant – especially the highest-performing models. But I suspect those who are sensitive to bike aesthetics are probably not reading this article.

Let’s now discuss the disadvantages when compared to a suspension fork.

Suspension Stem Disadvantages (Compared to Suspension Forks)

Over rough terrain, a suspension stem does not offer the same level of grip or bike stability as a suspension fork.

This is because they use much less advanced dampers, they have much less tunability, and they only suspend your upper body (rather than the entire front of your bike). They also have significantly less suspension travel, which means they cannot absorb as much energy after a bigger impact.

As a result, suspension stems are simply no match when it comes to off-road performance.

Now that you understand the advantages and disadvantages of these stems, let’s get into the nitty gritty of their design.

Suspension Stem Designs

Single pivot stems are the lightest, sleekest, and most simple design. These stems offer great performance, as the internal spring is usually very responsive, resulting in great vibration damping on fast gravel roads.

There are a few downsides, however.

Firstly, the amount of leverage you apply to the spring is different depending on where you place your hands. This means that while the stem might feel supple in the brake hoods, it might be too stiff once you’ve moved to the bar tops or drops.

Secondly, the distance your hands are forward of the pivot point determines the suspension travel. This design quirk means that those with shorter stems miss out on some travel. It also means that single-pivot stems are best paired with drop bars, as your hands are far enough forward (at the brake hoods) to unlock the full suspension travel.

Thirdly, these stems pivot in an arc, which results in your brake and shift levers tilting forward under compression. This characteristic feels a bit strange but can be somewhat accounted for by tilting your handlebars up.

And lastly, single-pivot stems don’t accommodate sweptback handlebars well. This is because your hands simply end up too close to the pivot point.

A multi-pivot stem solves most of these issues. They require the same amount of force to activate them, no matter where you place your hands. In addition, all stem lengths offer the same amount of travel, the bar angle remains consistent under compression, and they all suit sweptback bars.

The downside is that these stems have four bearings, which might develop small amounts of play long term. They also aren’t that pretty and add some weight.

Let’s now look at the two different spring types.

Spring Types

First up we have coil springs.

According to our tests, these springs consistently offer the highest level of comfort because they move up and down almost uninhibited. This very effectively smoothens out the high-frequency chatter you experience on fast gravel roads.

The downside to a very active spring is that it can feel ‘bouncy’ when you ride hard. It can also make your handlebars feel a bit disconnected from the ground below.

Elastomer springs are the other option.

These springs have more material damping, which not only makes them less bouncy overall but gives them a better feel. While they can’t match the high-frequency vibration damping of a coil spring, they are equally as good at absorbing bigger hits.

A downside to elastomer springs is that they can firm up in below-freezing conditions. That said, this is not considered significant until it’s ridiculously cold – Redshift says that’s at -40F/-40C.

Ok, you’re almost an expert on suspension stems now, so let’s take a close look at the best suspension stems available.

I’m going to link through to some online stores below that will give CYCLINGABOUT a small commission on any sales. If you want to support this content, this is an excellent way to do so!

Best Suspension Stem #1: Kinekt

Linkage: Multi Pivot
Spring Type: Coil
Length: 90 to 120mm
Min Weight: 470 g / 16.6 oz
Travel: 20mm / 0.8″
Bar Clamp: 31.8mm

$189 AT AMAZON

$189 AT AVENTURON

The Kinekt suspension stem is the most comfortable model we have tested in the CyclingAbout Comfort Lab. It uses a fast-moving coil spring with 20mm of travel and employs a multi-pivot layout so that you get great performance no matter where you place your hands.

While it’s a top performer, this stem can feel a bit bouncy and vague at times. It can also make a small knocking sound after it tops out after large impacts. As a result, this stem is usually best for those with an upright riding position, or those who ride at a more relaxed pace.

The Kinekt stem comes with three spring rates to adjust to your body weight, riding style, and terrain. It’s notably stiff torsionally and is available in an array of rises and lengths, including some super-tall models for those looking for a bit more bar height.

Kinekt Suspension in 90-105-120mm with 7° angle:
$189 at Amazon
$189 at Aventuron (90mm)
$189 at Aventuron (105mm)
$189 at Aventuron (120mm)

Kinekt Suspension in 100mm with high 30° angle:
$189 at Amazon
$189 at Aventuron
$189 at REI

Kinket Stem in 100mm with very high 50° angle:
$189 at Amazon
$189 at Aventuron

Best Suspension Stem #2: Vecnum Freeqence

Linkage: Multi Pivot
Spring Type: Elastomer
Length: 90 to 120mm
Min Weight: 287 g / 10.1 oz
Travel: 20mm / 0.8″
Bar Clamp: 31.8mm

€299 AT VECNUM

The Vecnum Freeqence is another multi-pivot stem with 20mm of travel that appears similar to the Kinekt. There are a few key differences, however.

The Freeqence uses an elastomer spring that not only has the best feel of any stem but it isn’t ever bouncy. It also has 10mm of upward travel that eliminates ‘top out’ entirely. These characteristics allow the stem to instantly fade into the background while you ride.

One of the greatest things about the Freeqence is that you can adjust the spring rate for a 50 to 120 kg rider just by using an Allen key on the side (110 to 265 lb). This is not quite an on-the-fly adjustment, but it’s close enough – no other stem provides this easy adjustability.

The Freeqence is also 40% lighter than the Kinekt stems, however, this pursuit of lightness can be to its detriment should you ride with a flat handlebar, as it has noticeably less torsional stiffness. The stem is also rather expensive due to the extensive machining and titanium axles, and I’ve found it to be less active than I’d like over fast, repetitive bumps.

Nonetheless, this stem has the least amount of compromises for my use, so this is what I’m currently using on my five-year bike journey around Africa.

Best Suspension Stem #3: Redshift ShockStop

Linkage: Single Pivot
Spring Type: Elastomer
Length: 80 to 120mm
Min Weight: 220 g / 7.8 oz
Travel: 20mm / 0.8″
Bar Clamp: 31.8mm

$189 AT AMAZON

$189 AT ANGRY CATFISH

The Redshift elastomer stem is a proven performer, with a 20%+ reduction in vibrations compared to a regular stem. Krzysztof currently uses a Redshift as a comfort benchmark in our vibration tests.

The ShockStop is a single-pivot design, making it best suited to drop bar bikes where you can place your hands in the brake hoods.

This stem is very stiff laterally and it has a fast spring rate to damp high-frequency vibration. It’s very adjustable too; you get five different elastomers that will give you 15 different possible spring stiffnesses.

Unlike other stems, you can run the Redshift with a positive or negative rise. That said, I didn’t enjoy using the negative rise setup, as the direction of force coming from the ground is different from the stem’s movement – the stem feels best in the positive orientation.

The Redshift comes in lengths from 80 to 120mm in both 1 1/8” and 1 1/4” sizes. There’s also a high-rise version available in two lengths, and a $249 Pro version that cuts 15% from the stem weight.

Redshift ShockStop in 80-90-100-110-120mm with 6° angle:
$189 at Amazon
$189 at Angry Catfish
$189 at Competitive Cyclist
$189 at REI

Redshift ShockStop in 80-100mm with high 30° angle:
$189 at Amazon
$189 at Angry Catfish
$189 at Competitive Cyclist
$189 at REI

Redshift ShockStop Pro Lightweight in 80-90-100-110-120mm:
$249 at Amazon
$249 at Angry Catfish
$249 at Competitive Cyclist

Best Suspension Stem #4: Cane Creek eeSilk

Linkage: Single Pivot
Spring Type: Elastomer
Length: 70 to 100mm
Min Weight: 225 g / 7.9 oz
Travel: 20mm / 0.8″
Bar Clamp: 31.8mm

$229 AT ANGRY CATFISH

$229 AT REI

Cane Creek offers a single-pivot elastomer stem that’s very similar to the Redshift, but this one comes with a soft-to-firm switch!

When it’s rough, run it unlocked, and when it’s smooth – stiffen it up. You can run a softer spring rate than usual as you don’t need to compromise for all riding situations.

If you prefer a cleaner look, the Cane Creek is also available without the lockout switch. Both models are available in 70, 80, 90, or 100mm lengths.

Cane Creek makes it easy to change between the three spring rates. You don’t need to remove the handlebar like you do with the Redshift stem – undoing just one bolt allows you to swap in a softer or firmer elastomer.

Unfortunately, the Cane Creek can only be used in the negative orientation, which again, is not optimal as the stem moves in a different direction from the forces coming up from the ground.

Cane Creek eeSilk in 70-80-90-100mm lengths with switch:
$229 at Angry Catfish
$229 at Backcountry
$229 at Competitive Cyclist
$229 at REI

Cane Creek eeSilk in 70-80-90-100mm lengths:
$199 at Backcountry
$199 at Competitive Cyclist

Specialized Future Shock

The last product I want to show you is the Future Shock, which is only available on Specialized gravel and endurance road bikes.

This 20mm travel suspension element uses a sensitive coil spring just like the Kinekt stem, but it additionally has a hydraulic cartridge damper inside to control the spring speed. This product not only feels great, but it has a compression dial that allows you to quickly adjust the firmness from completely open to locked out.

The reason why I wanted to include the Future Shock in this article is that it offers the most gravel road comfort of any front suspension products we’ve tested, and that includes suspension forks too.

On a bumpy forest trail, we found the Future Shock could attenuate 6% more vibration than a bike fitted with both a Lauf suspension fork AND a Redshift suspension stem. On a fast gravel road, the Future Shock absorbed almost 20% more vibrations! This is an amazing result given we already know the Redshift stem is leaps and bounds more comfortable than a rigid stem.

We’ve so far found the Future Shock to be the holy grail in terms of performance, adjustability, lock-out, and aesthetics. A bonus is that it can even fit stems shorter than 70mm.

But the downside to this high-tech solution is that it’s only available on some Specialized bikes, and the complexity results in more servicing requirements, potential points of failure, and in the future, the inability to obtain spare parts.

Let’s finish up with a few quick frequently asked questions.

Suspension Stem FAQs

Can you combine suspension forks and suspension stems?

Suspension stems deflect just 10 to 20mm, so this movement will have a minimal effect on the handling of your bike. If you want better vibration damping on a fast gravel road, or you feel the need for a small boost in suspension travel, a suspension stem would do that for you.

Can you use front luggage with suspension stems?

You can use a front bag with a suspension stem but you will need to compensate by using a stiffer spring.

Do suspension stems work on a quill stem bike?

Yes, you can fit them with an adapter.

Are there any stems under $100?

Linkage: Multi Pivot
Spring Type: Coil
Length: 90mm
Min Weight: 485 g / 17.1 oz
Travel: 20mm / 0.8″
Bar Clamp: 31.8mm

$85 AT AMAZON

You can find generic coil-spring, multi-pivot stems sold under many names including Meroca, Bibike, and JFOYH.

These stems are not the best choice if you’re planning on riding hard, as they tend to top and bottom out on rough terrain, making a clunking sound. But if your riding position is upright and your riding style is relaxed, they should offer decent performance – especially for the price.

Just note that there is a single length available with these stems (90mm).

The TranzX Antishock is another cheap stem. However, this model has been lab-tested to be ineffective, so it’s best to skip it.

Summary

I originally expected suspension stems to be a gimmick, but ultimately, I’ve found them to increase the fun and enjoyment of cycling by way of a comfort boost – and you will appreciate that on longer rides. As a result, I can only recommend you try one.

There are trade-offs to coil and elastomer springs, as well as single-pivot and multi-pivot stem designs. Make sure to carefully examine the pros and cons of each design to find the product that best suits your needs.

The post Why Suspension Stems Are The Ultimate Comfort Upgrade For Bicycles appeared first on CYCLINGABOUT.com.

• Best Rear Rack Overall: Tubus Logo Classic
• Best For Full Suspension Bikes: Old Man Mountain Divide
• Best Carbon Fiber Rack: Tailfin Carbon Rack
• Best For Easy Take Off: Ortlieb Quick Rack
• Best Bikepacking Minimalist Rack: Tubus Vega Classic
• Best Titanium Rack: Tubus Airy
• Best For Using Cargo Cages: Tumbleweed Mini Pannier Rack
• Best Bombproof Rack For Very Wide Tires: Surly Rear Rack
• Best Bombproof Rack For Wide Tires: Tubus Grand Tourer
• Best Budget Rack: Iberia RA5

The Long Version

Racks are one of the most likely components to fail on a bicycle trip. The good news is that when you pick the right rack, you almost certainly won’t get stranded in the middle of nowhere. The best rear racks will last a lifetime, so invest once and get it right – and you’ll never have to do it again.

To start, it’s crucial to consider which models will fit on your bike. Some racks attach only via dedicated rack eyelets on the rear triangle of your frame. Other racks have ‘fit kits’, making them almost universal.

Some racks have very high weight capacities, so if you are planning on an around-the-world trip, a rack with a high capacity and stiffness will be the go (you never know when you need to strap a couple of gallons of water to your bike).

We will also be showcasing lots of lightweight racks, heavy-duty racks, and racks that fit wide tires.

Note: We may earn a commission when you purchase a rack through our links. This directly supports CYCLINGABOUT and allows us to continue to provide high-quality cycling information to you.

Need To Know What To Look Out For?

To learn about the key features of racks along with specific details to look for, check out the Buying Advice section at the bottom. This includes lots of handy information to assist you in making the right purchase choice.

Jump to Buying Advice

The Best Rear Racks

Tubus Logo Classic

Best Rear Rack Overall

Price: $185 ($$$)

Weight Capacity: 57.3lbs / 26kg

Rack Weight: 1.38lbs / 630g

Tire Clearance: 29 x 2.35″

The Tubus Logo Classic is perhaps the most well-regarded rack in the world, in fact, the author of this website has used Tubus Logo racks for over 100,000mi (160,000km) of touring around the world!

The steel Logo is built narrower than most racks and hangs your panniers one level lower; lowering the center of gravity and improving your bike’s stability. These dedicated pannier rails additionally provide clearance above the panniers for a dry bag, or “rack pack” on the top platform.

If your bike frame has short chain stays, or you have big feet, the Logo puts your panniers extra far back to gain heel clearance. This makes the Logo great for gravel bikes that tend to have shorter chain stays than usual.

The rack comes in two different sizes: one for 26″/700C wheels and one for 27.5/29″ wheels. If in doubt, simply go for the Logo 29 model (it’s an inch taller). We have fitted 27.5 x 2.6″ tires into the Logo 29 rack with enough clearance on either side.

Here’s the cool thing about Tubus – they make racks, and that’s it! They have been rack specialists for over 30 years, and are so confident in their product that they back all their racks with a 3-year mobile warranty. This means that if you experience a failure within the first three years of use, Tubus will ship you replacement parts anywhere in the world. That’s unbeatable peace of mind for a bike traveler, and it’s followed up with a 10-year regular warranty.

You can fit the Tubus Logo to some bikes without rack mounts. If your rear wheel axle is quick-release, you can use the Tubus Adapter Set for the lower mounts, and a Salsa Rack Lock seatpost clamp for the upper struts.

	Tubus Logo Classic Black	Tubus Logo Classic Silver	Tubus Logo 29 Black
	See Price	See Price	See Price
	See Price	See Price	See Price

Old Man Mountain Divide

Best For Full Suspension Bikes

Price: $168 ($$$)

Weight Capacity: 70lbs / 31.8kg when axle-mounted

Rack Weight: 2.1lbs / 960g

Tire Clearance: 29 x 3.0″

What sets the Old Man Mountain rack apart is its adaptability. Unlike traditional racks, its compatible with a wide range of bikes including full-suspension bikes. The innovative attachment system means you don’t need rack mounts, making it incredibly versatile and easy to install.

This rack’s solid construction guarantees stability under heavy loads, and the low pannier rails and height adjustability keep your bike feeling nimble over rough terrain thanks to a reduced center of gravity.

The Old Man Mountain Divide has a notably spacious platform on top to cinch down an extra large dry bag. It’s one versatile rack that provides ample flexibility for your next off-road adventure.

There are two models to choose from. The Regular will suit tires up to 3.0″ wide, while the Fat is designed around tires between 3.0″ to 5.0″!

The only notable downside is that with so many fit kit options, it can be a bit complicated to figure out which one to order. Make sure to check out the Old Man Mountain website, which will help guide you through the steps.

	Old Man Mountain Divide (3.0″)	Old Man Mountain Divide Fat (5.0″)
	See Price	See Price

Tailfin Carbon Rack

Best Carbon Fiber

Price: $465 ($$$$$)

Weight Capacity: 59.5lbs / 27kg

Rack Weight: 11.8oz / 335g (with pannier mounts fitted)

Tire Clearance: 29 x 2.9″

Tailfin’s unique ultralight racks have brought a new perspective to bike travel.

Their modular packing system is based on a lightweight rack that is compatible with 99% of bikes on the market. The mounting design lets you attach a rack to your seat post and thru-axle (or via traditional threaded rack mounts if you have them). Once you initially install the hardware, you can then take the rack on and off in seconds.

A Tailfin rack can be used to mount any of Tailfin’s extensive line of specially designed panniers and bags – we especially like the Tailfin AP20 Trunk Bag and various panniers. Alternatively, if you already have a favorite pannier set, you can fit them too with the right adapters.

There is great heel clearance on this model, and it’s full-suspension compatible thanks to its special pivot design. In addition, it can clear wide off-road tires to the tune of 26×4.0, 27.5×3.5, and 29×2.9.

If you like this rack concept but the carbon model is too expensive, a heavier alloy version drops the price by a third, and offers cargo cage mounts for additional bag options. A cool thing is that Tailfin products are designed to be modular, so if you initially purchased the alloy rack you can later buy carbon arch and top stay, and switch over to a lighter rack.

	Tailfin Carbon Rack	Tailfin Alloy Rack
	See Price	See Price

Ortlieb Quick Rack

Best For Easy Take Off

Price: $100 ($$)

Weight Capacity: 44.1lbs / 20kg

Rack Weight: 1.2lbs / 580g

Tire Clearance: 2.35″

Ortlieb is synonymous with rugged bike travel thanks to their durable panniers that have been a bike travel staple for over 40 years. Recently they have brought their German engineering and durability to the lightweight bike rack market.

The Ortlieb Quick Rack quickly transforms whatever bike you have into a bike for short tours or around-town errands. Similar to the Tailfin, it fits 99% of bikes on the market, and once you do the initial hardware attachment, it takes just seconds to fit or remove the rack.

There are two versions of the Quick Rack. The regular model has a platform on top if you want to cinch down a dry bag or fit a “rack pack”. If you are only using panniers, the Quick Rack Light will be the go. It eliminates the upper platform, which reduces the weight by 5.3 oz (150 g).

The Quick Racks are also compatible with Ortlieb’s vast line of panniers. It’s important to remember that this rack isn’t a replacement for a permanent rack, and it’s vital to stick to the weight capacity, or you can risk damage or breakage.

	Ortlieb Quick Rack (Platform)	Ortlieb Quick Rack Light (No Platform)
	See Price	See Price

Tubus Vega Classic

Best Minimalist Rack

Price: $150 ($$$)

Weight Capacity: 55lbs / 25kg

Rack Weight: 1.2lbs / 540g

Tire Clearance: 2.35″

The Tubus Vega is the sleeker and lighter alternative to the Logo (featured above). By omitting the lower pannier rails of the Logo, the Vega can be built lighter while maintaining a very respectable load capacity.

Built on Tubus’ legacy of engineering, the Vega exemplifies reliability, making it an ideal choice for moderate loads. Whether you opt for a dry bag on top of the rack, panniers, or both – the Vega accommodates the usual gear configurations with ease.

As it uses the upper platform of the rack for mounting panniers, you get some extra ground clearance compared to other racks for navigating challenging terrain.

The rack comes in two different sizes: one for 26″/700C wheels and one for 27.5/29″ wheels. If in doubt, simply go for the Vega 29 model (it’s an inch taller). We have fitted 27.5 x 2.8″ tires into the Vega 29 rack with enough clearance on either side.

Like all Tubus racks, if you experience a failure within the first three years of use, Tubus will ship you replacement parts anywhere in the world. This is unbeatable peace of mind for a bike traveler!

You can fit the Tubus Vega to some bikes without rack mounts. If your rear wheel axle is quick-release, you can use the Tubus Adapter Set for the lower mounts, and a Salsa Rack Lock seatpost clamp for the upper struts.

	Tubus Vega Classic 26″ or 700C Black	Tubus Vega Classic 29″ Black
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Tubus Airy

Best Titanium Rack

Price: $399 ($$$$$)

Weight Capacity: 57.3lbs / 26kg

Rack Weight: 12.7oz / 360g

Tire Clearance: 700 x 47mm

The Tubus Airy boasts an irresistible coolness factor, proudly holding the title as the pioneering titanium rack in the market. Its titanium build strikes an impeccable balance between featherlight design and unwavering durability.

Despite its remarkable lightweight nature, the Airy stands strong and is capable of handling impressive loads. It’s rated to carry 57.3 lbs (26 kg) while tipping the scales at a mere 12.7 oz (360 grams). Yep, it can carry 72 times its weight!

For those meticulously counting every gram yet wanting the flexibility to use any type of pannier (or secure a dry bag on top), this rack fits the bill perfectly.

Moreover, any travel-induced scratches or blemishes on your Airy can be easily buffed out. This makes the Airy not just strong but forever new-looking.

You can fit the Tubus Airy to some bikes without rack mounts. If your rear wheel axle is quick-release, you can use the Tubus Adapter Set for the lower mounts, and a Salsa Rack Lock seatpost clamp for the upper struts.

	Tubus Airy Titanium
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Tumbleweed Mini Pannier Rack

Best Rack For Cargo Cages

Price: $139 ($$$)

Weight Capacity: 66lbs / 30kg

Rack Weight: 12.7oz / 660g

Tire Clearance: 29 x 3.5″

As the 2020 Bikepacking.com Gear of the Year Award recipient, this rack stands out as an excellent choice for adventure cyclists – this steel rack can withstand proper off-road terrain.

The steel Mini Pannier Rack has triple boss mounts on the legs so you can mount cargo cages, or water bottle cages with expandable capacity for trips like the Baja Divide. The platform on the top is generously large (12″ x 5″), which will be perfect for cinching down an extra-large dry bag.

Despite its versatility, the Mini Pannier Rack isn’t for everyone – it’s best paired with mini bikepacking panniers that match the small surface area of the rack. You will also have to have threaded bosses on your frame to mount this rack (it’s not thru-axle compatible).

It’s worth noting there is another Tumbleweed rack model called the T Rack, which is an extra-minimalist version that’s not intended to fit panniers. Instead, you will be using cargo cages for your luggage on the sides, and the top platform will be a great substitute for a bikepacking seat pack.

Both racks have notably large tire clearance for up to 26 x 4.75” or 29 x 3.5″.

	Tumbleweed Mini Pannier Rack	Tumbleweed T Rack
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Surly Rear Rack

Best Bombproof Rack For Very Wide Tyres

Price: $155 ($$$)

Weight Capacity: 80lbs / 36kg

Rack Weight: 2.78lbs / 1.26kg

Tire Clearance: 29 x 3.0″

On the hunt for an ultra-durable rack with wide tire clearance? Look no further. The Surly rear rack is the epitome of robustness, boasting an impressive maximum weight limit that embodies Surly’s reputation for durability.

What distinguishes the Surly Rear rack from Tubus options is its height adjustability. This feature ensures compatibility with various tire sizes and also helps keep your weight and center of gravity as low as possible for improved stability.

This steel rack comes in black or silver and tips the scales at almost three pounds making it the heaviest contender on our list. However, keep in mind its 80-pound (36kg) weight capacity surpasses most bike racks – your legs will probably give out before this rack does.

	Surly Rear Rack Black	Surly Rear Rack Silver
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Tubus Grand Tour

Best Bombproof Rack For Wide Tyres

Price: $255 ($$$$)

Weight Capacity: 88lbs / 40kg

Rack Weight: 1.68lbs / 760g

Tire Clearance: 29 x 2.35″

The ultimate round-the-world touring rack is the Tubus Grand Tour. This steel rack has the highest weight capacity of any rack here, and all in a package that’s 40% lighter than the Surly Rear Rack!

There are finer details on the Grand Tour that make it a bit more expensive too, such as the lower mounting points (3D printed) that do not require any additional spacers, even with disc brakes.

Your panniers will sit nice and low on the Grand Tour as it uses dedicated rails, keeping your center of gravity in check.

Like all Tubus racks, if you experience a failure within the first three years of use, Tubus will ship you replacement parts anywhere in the world. This is unbeatable peace of mind for a bike traveler!

We would award this rack the best overall, but the Logo Classic simply offers better value for money.

	Tubus Grand Tour Black
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Ibera RA5 Rack

Best Budget Rack

Price: $50 ($)

Weight Capacity: 55lbs / 25kg

Rack Weight: 1.68lbs / 760g

Tire Clearance: 29 x 2.6″

The Ibera might be a budget-friendly pick, but it doesn’t miss out on any features.

It’s height adjustable and has lower pannier rails to can keep the center of gravity of your panniers nice and low. The pannier rails are also set further back, which means it will offer excellent heel clearance.

In addition, this rack has clearance for seat stay disc brake calipers and has pins on the rack so that your panniers won’t slide on the rails.

The Ibera RA5 is not a rack for long-term heavy-duty use though – it’s built to a price. If you are planning a long trip, the extra money spent on a more durable rack will be well worth it.

It’s important to keep in mind that there’s a plethora of budget bike racks out there for even cheaper, but inexpensive racks very rarely last the distance. The Ibera is the cheapest model we are comfortable recommending.

	Ibera RA5
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Rear Bike Rack Buying Advice

Rack Material

Steel – Most of the racks on this list are made of steel. Steel provides a great nexus between durability, load capacity, and weight – all at a reasonable price point.

Aluminum – This material is a hit-and-miss for racks. The best aluminum racks are very stiff, very durable, and will last a lifetime. However, far too many rack brands use aluminum that is too soft (or they forgo durable surface treatments), resulting in failures and giving the material a bad name. Needless to say, we have picked out durable aluminum models only.

Carbon Fiber or Titanium – If you want a particularly lightweight setup or have an eye on aesthetics, titanium or carbon fiber racks could fit the bill. Even though they are made from lightweight materials, the racks on this list won’t sacrifice durability one bit. That said, you will be paying for this pleasure.

Attachment Style

Threaded Frame Mounts – Threaded frame eyelets are the most common way to fit a rear rack. In the past, these mounts were the only way to attach a rear rack – now, there are many other solutions.

Axle Mounts – Not all bikes have lower frame mounts. Mounting a rack directly to the axle is a great way to maximize the weight capacity of a rear rack as it allows for a very stiff structure. The Tailfin and Old Man Mountain racks are great examples of axle mounts done right, and Tubus racks can be attached via the axle using a special mounting kit.

Seat Post Mounts – Some racks employ special quick-release clamps that will lock on the seat post. This allows for the easy attachment and removal of a rack – the Ortlieb and Tailfin racks are prime examples. It’s worth noting you can also mount most racks to your seat collar – Salsa makes some nice collars with built-in eyelets.

Seat Stay Mounts – These upper mounts connect directly to the seat stays of the frame, and will work on full-suspension bikes.

Weight Capacity

Sticking to the weight limit set by the manufacturer will ensure your rack lasts a lifetime. If you do exceed this limit, it’s much more likely your rack will bend and break, especially on rough roads.

Even if you don’t plan to exceed the manufacturer’s limits, higher-weight capacity racks are significantly stiffer (with less side-to-side sway) and will be more reliable in the long term.

Tire Clearance

You will need to make sure your rack can comfortably fit your tire width. This is especially important if you’re riding off-road, as mud, grit, and rocks can jam in between the rack and tire.

We have listed the maximum tire widths for all racks here to make sure this doesn’t happen.

Rack Height

A shorter rack height helps keep your pannier’s center of gravity low, so your bike is easier to handle over rough and varying surfaces. Some racks like the Tubus Logo feature extra low rails for your panniers, which helps reduce the bag’s center of gravity even further.

Rack Pannier Support Area

The ‘pannier support area’ is the surface that the pannier sits on. With a larger rack surface area for your panniers to rest on, they will be extra supported, twisting less and putting less stress on your pannier hooks.

Please note that the pannier support area can be quite small on some of the more minimal racks (eg. Tumbleweed). It’s best to use smaller panniers on racks with this characteristic.

Upper Rack Mounting Struts

If you use a smaller bike frame, you may need to find longer upper struts for your rack. We have made sure to select racks with extra long struts available.

They’re available in 240mm, and 350mm lengths from Tubus. Surly has aftermarket upper struts that are 300mm in length. Ibera sells 280mm struts, and Tumbleweed includes 300mm upper mounting struts with their racks.

Rack Heel Clearance

If the chain stays on your bike are on the shorter side (440 mm or shorter), or you have particularly large feet, you may need a rack designed for extra heel clearance.

We have many racks listed here that shift your panniers further rearward (eg. Tubus Logo or Tailfin), and we also have a separate article on ten racks that provide additional heel clearance HERE.

Disc Brakes

If your bike uses a rear disc brake on the top of the seat stay, you will need to determine if a rack is capable of clearing the caliper. We’ve tried to pick only disc brake-suitable racks, but sometimes you’ll need to use a foot extension set like this one from Tubus.

It’s worth noting that any of the axle-mounted racks will clear brake calipers just fine.

Full Suspension Bikes

Fitting a rack to a full-suspension bike is tricky because the rack needs to move up and down with the rear wheel.

Tailfin racks have a unique pivot design that allows the rack to move with the suspension but still connect to the main frame via the seat post.

A rack on a full suspension bike can alternatively attach to the seat stays and rear axle. The Old Man Mountain rack is designed to be mounted in this manner, so it won’t interfere with your rear wheel’s movement.

The post The 10 Best Rear Racks for Bicycle Touring and Bikepacking appeared first on CYCLINGABOUT.com.

We’ve moved from simple elastomer dampers to very advanced hydraulic cartridge dampers that offer incredible levels of adjustability and performance.

The Cannondale ‘Lefty’ is a standout chassis design and has actually been in production since 1999. This suspension strut (as it’s not technically a fork) has always intrigued me as it actually brings about some significant benefits.

Now, if you’re sitting there thinking the Lefty is weird, consider that the wheels on your car only attach to one side, so perhaps this design is more normal than not!

In this article, we will talk about all things Lefty, and why this chassis might just be the future of suspension design. I also want to take you on a journey of other promising designs to better understand the principles behind progress in this space.

I’ve decided to focus on short-travel products, as there are many misconceptions in this space, and I think the design solutions here are especially fascinating. I’ll cover long-travel Lefty solutions in a separate article because, well, things get weird!

We will be discussing some fascinating data coming out of the CyclingAbout Comfort Lab. Krzysztof has already conducted over 30 vibration tests that you can access via the link.

Why Should Bicycles Use Suspension?

Grip, Stability & Control

On rougher surfaces, be it a gravel road or trail, the front suspension helps the tyre maintain contact with the ground, ensuring better grip and control. This is especially noticeable when cornering and braking.

It also helps to reduce the impact force on your hands. As a result, you do not need to grip the bars as tight, allowing for more effortless steering over bumps.

Higher Comfort & Less Fatigue

Vibrations coming up from the road or trail will dissipate in your body causing fatigue. This manifests as discomfort including muscle soreness and hand numbness.

When we graph bicycle vibration with a rigid gravel fork, it looks something like the graph above. The horizontal axis shows the frequency in Hertz, which is the number of vibration cycles that the fork completes in one second. The vertical axis shows the amplitude, which is more or less the severity of the vibrations.

As you can see from the graph, suspension can very effectively reduce the vibration severity at low frequencies (eg. 20-40Hz), but we see smaller differences as we get into higher frequencies (eg. 40-100Hz).

Faster Speeds & Better Efficiency

A bike with suspension often rolls over an object more easily, therefore maintaining speed. This is because the suspension components (which include your tyres) can absorb more of the bump, meaning your bike and body will lift up and down much less.

This is actually an energy-saving for your legs on flat and uphill gradients.

Fun & Enjoyment

Ultimately, bikes are mostly about fun and enjoyment for most people. Having more grip and control, increasing comfort, and being faster are all ways to unlock extra enjoyment.

Ok, let’s now take a close look at the Lefty design.

Cannondale Lefty

Why is the Lefty design single-legged and upside down?

Weight for weight, Lefty’s are lab-tested to be both stiffer and stronger than typical suspension fork designs. This is in part thanks to the fact they’re upside-down, which positions the thickest and stiffest portion of the Lefty where leverage is greatest – the head tube.

Additionally, the lower assembly, which includes the axle, is forged and machined out of a single chunk of aluminium to further maximise the stiffness-to-weight ratio.

Why does the Lefty use needle bearings?

Leftys can be smoother and more sensitive too, which is especially important on short travel products as they firm up so rapidly.

Regular forks with round tubes often move on four plastic or Teflon-lined metal bushings, which are the main contact points between the upper and lower assemblies. These bushings experience friction that needs to be overcome when the fork moves into its travel, and they even bind a bit as the fork flexes.

In comparison, the Lefty slides up and down on one set of needle bearings and just one bushing. These bearings can still roll and move as the Lefty flexes, allowing the suspension to track better over big and edgy bumps, in particular.

Cannondale says there is around 140% more friction in a typical fork when static, and 75% more when the fork is moving – graph HERE.

Why don’t we use needle bearings on typical suspension forks?

It’s very challenging (or rather cost-prohibitive) to run sets of needle bearings on two keyed stanchions. This is due to the alignment between both legs which needs to be near-perfect in multiple axes, with very tight manufacturing tolerance. If the manufacturer doesn’t get this right, the product can end up with additional friction and potential binding.

Achieving a tight tolerance and mirror finish on two shafts and a few sets of bushings is much easier, and significantly cheaper.

How does the wheel track straight with only one leg?

The secret is found high in the upper assembly where three needle-bearing surfaces create a triangle-in-triangle interface that prevents the shaft from rotating.

Like any air-spring fork, you can easily adjust the spring stiffness with a shock pump, and a hydraulic damper provides precise control over the Lefty’s movement up and down.

Why is the Cannondale Lefty so uncommon?

Ultimately, the price is very high compared to a regular fork due to the intensive manufacturing process and small product volumes. This makes spare parts uncommon, and the maintenance needs to be conducted at Cannondale service centres. Various patents also prevent other brands from manufacturing similar products.

But I must say, having had a few Leftys over the years, I’ve found them all to work exceptionally. I especially enjoyed riding the Oliver gravel fork, which shocked me with how just 30mm travel could add so much grip and control when things got rough.

Unlike most suspension systems, the Oliver isn’t designed to sag into its travel, so it feels firmer off the top than most forks. This is to ensure the suspension doesn’t bob on smoother surfaces.

However, the downside to this firm tune is that the suspension does a poor job of absorbing high-frequency vibration, which we verified in a Comfort Lab test. Krzysztof actually found virtually zero difference between the Lefty being locked and unlocked at 35kph on a fast gravel road.

Let’s now put Cannondale’s Lefty to the side and discuss an all-new carbon fibre ‘lefty’ that can handle high-frequently vibration.

Motion La City

In terms of feel, the Motion La City is almost the opposite of the Lefty Oliver.

This comfort-oriented product is easily the most sensitive suspension system I’ve ever tested, in fact, there is so little friction that I was constantly checking my front tyre hadn’t gone flat.

The secret to its sensitivity is that there are no seals, air springs, dampers, or bushings to create friction. Instead, a small carbon leaf spring and linkage do all the work.

Interestingly, the carbon spring is pulled rather than compressed, which allows the suspension to be ultra-soft off the top before firming right up. As a result, your bike glides over small bumps. There’s also an anti-dive link that helps to isolate any braking forces, preventing the suspension from bogging down under hard braking.

The La City is incredibly light. When built into a carbon single strut chassis, this 50mm travel fork is just 1kg/2.2lb. But the spring and link can be built into a fork with a second hollow leg that suits regular front wheels too.

The beauty of a simple and elegant design like this is not its weight, but the fact it requires virtually zero maintenance. This is perfect for hardworking commuting, bikepacking, and fleet bikes.

Ok, the La City sounds pretty amazing, so what are the downsides?

There is no adjustability and no lock-out switch either, so the suspension will bob while you pedal. There is also no damper element, which would normally prevent a fork from bouncing uncontrollably.

This might sound like a recipe for extreme bounciness, however, I never found the La City to feel overwhelmed within its intended use (urban). You can just sit down, pedal along and enjoy its comfort.

There is another interesting leaf spring carbon fork design that I’d now like to show you.

Lauf Grit SL

The Lauf Grit SL employs 12 glass fibre springs to provide 30mm of maintenance-free travel, all in an impressively light 850-gram package (1.9lb).

Like the La City, there is no lockout switch, no adjustability, and no damper, so after a few intense impacts, you might have to deal with some excess energy built up in the springs. The Grit SL is, therefore, best for gravel roads, rather than rough trails.

Like the Cannondale Lefty, this fork doesn’t seem to attenuate vibration better than a rigid carbon fork on fast gravel roads. In fact, according to our data, the best rigid fork might actually provide a marginally smoother ride at 35km/h on a gravel road.

To understand how a rigid fork can possibly provide a more comfortable ride than a suspension fork, we now need to understand what happens when your front wheel encounters bumps.

Upon impact, your fork – be it rigid or suspended – compresses backwards and rebounds forwards. This fore-aft movement is sometimes referred to as ‘splay’, and a high degree of it can be quite effective at damping vibrations.

According to data from Specialized, splay can make you faster up to a certain surface roughness, where suspension forks become more effective. This data is backed up by a Bicycle Quarterly test that found a fork with lots of splay can be as fast as a suspension fork on a rumble strip test.

But it’s important to note that the Grit SL still offers great comfort on fast gravel roads, and you get the advantage of extra grip, control, and comfort on rougher surfaces.

Ok, so what if we wanted the high splay of a carbon rigid fork, the sensitivity of a Motion leaf spring, and the damping system, needle bearings, and lockout of a Lefty?

HiRide Sterra

We would end up with the HiRide Sterra. You might have seen this suspension fork featured on the BMC URS LT gravel bike, but it’s also available as a separate product.

The Sterra has the aesthetic of a carbon fork, and that’s because the lower legs are indeed made from carbon fibre. But it’s inside the steerer is where the real magic happens.

The fork steerer is home to a coil spring, as well as a hydraulic cartridge damper that controls the speed of the spring up and down. This unit offers just 20mm travel, which suits the surface roughness of gravel roads, but it can be surprisingly effective at isolating you from larger impacts too.

However, it’s on fast gravel roads (with high-frequency vibration) where this fork shines.

Most short-travel suspension products employ air springs, which are easy to adjust to your body weight and riding style. However, the many seals of an air spring add to the overall friction, so HiRide designed the Sterra with a coil spring and smooth needle bearings to keep friction to a minimum.

In the CyclingAbout Comfort Lab tests, coil spring products are consistently the most effective at damping vibration. Notable products include the Redshift seatpost, Kinekt stem, and Specialized FutureShock.

While the Sterra is not as sensitive as the Motion fork, it is designed to run with sag, so it will not require the same big impact to get moving as the Lefty. And when you don’t need the suspension travel, you can transform this fork into a rigid one with the simple twist of the lockout dial.

Interestingly, the fork blades offer a similar amount of splay to the most comfortable fork in our comfort lab tests (OPEN U-Turn). According to Tour Magazin data, the Open U-Turn is nearly identical in a fore-aft deflection test (65N/mm vs 68N/mm), adding comfort (and likely speed) outside of the suspension system on fast gravel roads.

The carbon fork blades are also much more aerodynamic than a fork with round tubes, and offer an aesthetic that better matches a gravel bike.

As the moving components of the Sterra are all sealed away and hidden from the elements, service intervals are 3-5x longer than most suspension forks too.

You can optimise this fork for your body weight and riding style with multiple spring rates and preload spacers. In terms of weight, it’s about 800 grams heavier than a rigid fork, which puts it in the ballpark of the Lefty Oliver.

Summary

So, are Lefty’s the future of suspension tech?

I suspect we’ll see more single-strut products in the future. While the weird looks might put off some, the chassis is undoubtedly stiff, light, high-performing and well-proven too. And the reduction in static and moving friction is a big benefit for a short travel application as they stiffen up so rapidly.

Watch out for leftys with increased sensitivity to high-speed vibration, as manufacturers further optimise their products around gravel and road use.

Leaf-spring designs (like the Motion La City) actually suit a lefty chassis perfectly, as the linkage occupies so little space. It’s cool that the leaf spring designs don’t require any maintenance either.

The post 4 Incredible New Gravel Suspension Forks That Outperform The Rest appeared first on CYCLINGABOUT.com.

In this resource, I’ll be teaching you everything about flat pedal shape, size, pins, bearings, and much more.

You will be able to apply my recommendations for on-road cycling where extreme grip is not as important as comfort and user-friendliness. There will be ample information about pedals for off-road use too.

I’ve also included some notes about flat pedal shoes, as the right type of sole makes a big difference in both the comfort and foot support you will experience.

Let’s get into it!

Flat Pedal Thicknesses

Thinner flat pedals are often preferred because they offer a lower stack height. This not only significantly reduces the frequency of pedal strikes with the ground, but it makes you feel a bit more connected to your bike. The Crank Brothers pedals shown above have one of the lowest stack heights available (11mm).

However, the downside to thin flat pedals is that they often use smaller bearings that reduce the overall durability.

Crank Brother Stamp 7
Thin body pedals that run on bushings.
SM: 100mm x 100mm x 11 mm, 345g / 12.2oz
LG: 114mm x 111mm x 11 mm, 375g / 13.2oz

Flat Pedal Shapes

When you look at flat pedals from the side you’ll notice a cool feature – most have offset platforms. This offset creates a slope on the front face that brushes over obstacles (like rocks and curbs) rather than hitting them squarely and incidentally throwing you over the bars.

A key thing to look out for in a pedal design is the concavity of the platform (it can also be a large-stepped surface). A concave-shaped pedal can boast comfort and grip in equal measure, and you will not need to rely on tall pins to generate all of your grip. Look out for pedals with 2mm or more concavity.

And lastly, avoid pedals with thick axle bumps as they can be significantly less grippy and very uncomfortable.

Raceface Atlas
Thin concave body pedals with large inboard bearings.
110 x 108 x 12 mm
386g / 13.6oz

MKS Allways
Thicker concave body pedals with sealed bearings and stubby pins.
110mm x 84mm x 18 mm
381g / 13.4oz

Flat Pedal Platform Sizes

A wider platform than the width of your shoe and the pins won’t end up in the right place. A platform smaller than your shoes and you won’t have the optimal grip.

The general consensus is that platform dimensions less than 100 x 100mm are considered small, and greater than 110 x 100mm are considered large. If your foot is a Men’s US 8 (EU40) shoe size or smaller, pedals labeled as small may be all you need.

I recommend trying some of the longer pedals rather than the shorter ones to give your foot a little bit more space to maneuver.

A particularly long pedal that’s used by many who claim less foot fatigue and increased bike control is the Pedaling Innovations Catalyst.

Pedaling Innovations Catalyst Evo
Biggest platform pedal available.
143mm x 95mm x 16 mm
510g / 18oz

Flat Pedals With Pins

A good set of pins makes for a secure connection that will rival a good clip-in pedal.

One of the best pin designs I’ve seen is on the Hope F22 pedals. They feature adjustable bottom-loading pins, with taller hex-shaped pins on the edges, and shorter stubbier pins on the sides. Together with the 1.5mm concave depression in the center of the pedal, they offer a grippy, yet comfortable place for your foot.

Bottom-loading pins are usually the easiest to remove since the tool head of the pin is not exposed to the elements. Bottom-loading varieties sometimes even come with washers to tailor the pin height to your personal preference.

Some pedals come with low-profile pins from the factory, which may be sufficient on more mellow trails.

Hope F22
Varying size pins and washers.
106 mm x 103 mm x 14mm
360g / 12.7oz

Shimano XT 8140
Available with low-profile pins.
SM: 100 mm x 105 mm x 17 mm, 460g / 16.2oz
LG: 110 mm x 115 mm x 17 mm, 505g / 17.8oz

Flat Pedals Without Pins

If you’re scared of pins puncturing your shins, there are plenty of options catered to casual or touring cyclists. The Shimano EF-202 is my favourite. I’ve put a lot of people on these pedals and they are all very happy.

The Look Geo Trekking, with its many versions, is another interesting option. It uses an injection-molded body with a concave surface and no pins whatsoever. If you like wearing flip-flops (or even barefoot), these may be the ticket.

Shimano PD-EF-202
My favourite pinless pedals (alloy) with lightly serrated ridges.
101 x 101 x 18 mm
512g / 18.1oz

Look Geo City
Large pinless nylon pedals primarily for urban use.
110 x 107 x 16 mm
330g / 11.6oz

Flat Pedal Bearing and Seals

Thicker pedals generally house the largest and most durable bearings. However, some thinner pedals, like the Raceface Atlas, use an alternative design with a larger bearing close to the crankset. This design allows the pedal body to be very slim, while still affording good bearing durability.

The downside may be that this raised section of the pedal might force your foot outboard, increasing your Q-factor (the distance between pedal platforms on either side of the crankset).

High-quality pedals often include a type of glide bushing. These bearings can be very effective in offsetting the side loads that often result in premature wear on regular cartridge bearings.

Most pedals use a wiper or labyrinth seal to keep dust and water out, however, I’ve found that’s with varying levels of success. Not many of the pedals I’ve used escaped periodic maintenance (yearly) and some affordable pedals (<$50 pedals) even needed to be fully replaced after that time.

Some pedals use cup and cone bearings (Shimano) that can be overhauled periodically to prolong their lifespan. In comparison, the tiny sealed cartridge bearings found on many pedals usually need to be replaced more often.

Flat Pedal Construction Materials

You can choose between affordable nylon pedals (they’re actually very pleasant to use) and slightly more durable alloy pedals. Both are often available in a range of dyed or anodized colors.

While I personally prefer the look and feel of aluminum body pedals, there are lots of injection-molded pedals that are well worth considering. They’re almost always lighter and quite a bit cheaper than the CNC-machined alloy ones. And in use, you’d be hard-pressed to tell the difference.

Raceface Chester
Tried and tested nylon pedal, also available in alloy.
110mm x 101mm x 18.4 mm
360g / 12.7oz

Shimano GR-400
An excellent nylon pedal from Shimano.
101mm x 96mm x 16 mm
394g / 13.9oz

Flat Pedal Axle Materials

High-quality axle materials increase durability too, as they are less likely to corrode and are machined to closer tolerances. Look out for axles in chromoly, stainless steel, or even titanium. Although, please note that titanium axles sometimes come with a weight restriction.

How To Choose Your Flat Pedal Shoes

Here’s the best thing – you can use any footwear you like! Well, as long as it has an entirely flat sole.

Most cycling-specific MTB shoes use a combination of soft durometer rubber (around 50c) and a grid of shallow lugs to allow the pins to maximize traction. Some shoes have a slightly stiffer midsole, increasing efficiency and providing a bit more support.

The front of a flat pedal shoe is usually more flexible than a clip-in shoe, which makes them more comfortable to walk in, especially uphill during inadvertent hike-a-bike moments.

Russ from Path Less Pedaled has good videos on alternative cycling shoes. His suggestions range from trail running shoes to casual shoes from Giro and Pearl Izumi. I like Russ’s YouTube channel as he recommends people take on a casual style of riding that prioritizes comfort and enjoyment rather than gains and efficiency.

My Shoes of Choice

The flat pedal shoes I’ve landed on are the Five Ten Trailcross LT. I’ve now had three pairs. I find them so comfortable to walk in that they are my everyday shoes.

The great thing about the Trailcross LTs is that the upper is largely constructed out of mesh material, which ventilates exceptionally. And the gel pads around the ankle make for a comfortable and secure fit while giving a very unrestricted feel.

When I’ve used these shoes in the pouring rain, they’ve always dried quickly. I find the combination of breathable shoes + waterproof socks (Sealskins) to be better than dedicated waterproof shoes, as they work out to be lighter, better ventilated, and more versatile.

You can find the Five Ten Trailcross LT shoes on Amazon HERE.

The Best Flat Pedals Overall

It’s hard to narrow it down to so few but the Hope F22 pedals tick so many boxes for off-road use.

The quality of manufacturing, excellent body shape, triple cartridge bearings, and seal arrangement are real standouts. The bottom-loading pins are easy to replace, and the pin length is adjustable with washers. The Hope F22 pedal is fully serviceable and rebuildable, and lightweight to boot (360g / 12.7oz)

Yes, these pedals are very expensive (US $183/£145/€180), especially compared to composite alternatives. They also don’t have the biggest pedal platform available (106 mm x 103 mm) or the most concave shape.

But their all-round quality is nothing short of amazing – expect them to last longer than everything else.

If you are on a budget, the Raceface Chester pedals are available for under US $50.

These large nylon pedals (110mm x 101mm) feature well-sealed cartridge bearings, bottom-loading hex pins, and a nice concave design. The bearing and bushing system is 100% serviceable too.

They are backed up with a two-year manufacturer warranty and are available in nine colours, including hot pink!

You can find the Raceface Chester pedals on Amazon HERE.

The MKS Allways is a particularly nice pedal for moderately rough terrain (think gravel up to 4×4 tracks).

They feature smooth cartridge bearings, nicely finished bodies, and a unique and elegant design. The platform is slightly concave to prevent your feet from slipping, and the stubbier removable pins are significantly less aggressive than what you’ll find on a ‘proper’ off-road pedal.

The Allways are a bit chunky (18mm thick) but they are long enough (110mm) to move your feet around. At US $75 they are reasonably priced for an alloy pedal.

And lastly, if you’re riding on smoother terrain, the Shimano EF-202 pedals are undoubtedly the best pinless design available. They feature a notably large platform (101 x 101 x 18 mm) and lightly serrated edges to cup your feet nicely.

You can expect no punctured shins or calves with these pedals, and at US $40 they are a relative bargain.

You can find the Shimano EF-202 pedals on Amazon HERE.

Summary

In a nutshell:
– Look out for pedals with some concavity.
– Determine whether a thin pedal is necessary on your bike.
– Pick a platform size that best suits your shoe size.
– Look to thicker pedals for the largest and most durable bearings.
– Find a pin design that allows for height adjustment and replacement (they will eventually get damaged).
– Avoid pedals with thick axle bumps.

Providing these factors are in place, it’s pretty much up to you if you want to spend more money on fancy materials which may improve their lifespan.

Remember that pinless flat pedals may not provide heaps of grip, but can still be very adequate and comfortable options that may ease you into this style of riding.

And finally, a dedicated flat pedal shoe with a sturdy, grippy sole will provide the best possible pedal traction.

Find out why flat pedals are better than clip-in pedals for most people in my resource HERE.

The post The Best Flat Pedals For Bikepacking, Touring and Commuting appeared first on CYCLINGABOUT.com.

For most of my career as a bike shop employee, I was certain that any serious cyclist should benefit from the foot retention and efficiency gains of clip-in pedals.

However, after examining research papers on pedalling dynamics, after testing grippy flat pedals myself, and after learning the nuances of how people interact with their bikes as a professional bike fitter – I found there are significant advantages to flat pedals.

Let me run you through the advantages, and after you’ve finished, make sure to read my resource on how to select the best flat pedals for your needs.

Why Flat Pedals Are Better Than Clip-In Pedals

You Can Move Your Feet Around The Pedals

On longer rides, you can move your feet around on the pedal platforms to alleviate pressure points, recruit different muscles and reduce fatigue. This was not a benefit I was aware of until I fitted large platform pedals on my bike.

You Can Dab

With flat pedals, you can make a small mistake, lose your balance, and quickly dab your foot on the ground to remain upright. This is especially beneficial when cycling at low speeds with as you can be stopped rather abruptly by obstacles and sand.

This has undoubtedly saved me from getting hurt many times, and likely saved me from embarrassment at the traffic lights too (due to forgetting to unclip!).

You Might Achieve An Extra Comfortable Bike Fit

You might achieve an extra comfortable bike fit if your circumstances allow.

People with larger feet and a wider overall ‘stance’ will usually achieve a better alignment of their hips, knees, and feet on flat pedals. Heavier riders often find large platforms to help with distributing the load.

And if you have really wide feet (or bunions) you no longer have to compromise with narrow cycling shoes.

You Are Better Equipped For Sightseeing & Hike-A-Bike

You’ll be much more inclined to spend time sightseeing on a bike trip if you are wearing comfortable walking shoes.

You will also benefit from a better gait, toe flex, and grip. This will be especially noticeable when pushing your bike due to the road being too steep, too muddy, or too dangerous to ride.

You Only Need One Pair of Shoes

When you travel with flat pedals, you can easily ride, hike and dine in the same pair of shoes, saving precious cargo space. After all, the volume of a second pair of shoes (or even flip-flops) is considerable.

My favourite shoes to use are the Five Ten Trailcross LT.

Your Riding Technique Might Improve

Flat pedals encourage you to ride more ‘loose’ on the bike. You might even find yourself moving your feet around on the pedals to gain additional bike control on rough trails.

You can even roll your feet on the pedals to engage your hips and tip your bike into corners. And sinking your heels into the pedals while descending can bring extra control on rougher terrain.

Your Flat Pedals Will Still Be Very Efficient

Most data suggests that at a constant power rate on a constant road gradient, there is no discernable difference in efficiency between flat and clip-in pedals (study 1, study 2).

GCN recently tested the efficiency of quality flat pedal shoes vs clip-ins – watch this video to get the full scope.

The results were really close, especially given the test subject wasn’t accustomed to riding with flat pedals. The biggest difference in power loss/gains between the two different setups is when sprinting out of the saddle.

I suspect the results may have been even closer if he dialled in his flat pedal technique.

Why Flat Pedals Work So Well

The Stiffness Comes From The Pedal Platform

The stiffness in a clip-in pedal system is primarily from your shoe. This is why stiff carbon blades are often inserted into the soles of clip-in shoes.

It’s the opposite when you use flat pedals. The large platform provides most of the stiffness, which means you don’t need to use the stiffest shoes, although they can help.

The Pins Retain Your Feet On Rough Surfaces

Flat pedal pins do a great job of preventing your feet from sliding on the pedals while you carry the forward momentum of your crank rotation.

Studies on pedaling dynamics show that ‘pulling up’ on the pedals contributes very little to your overall efficiency over longer ride durations. Efficiency gains are usually only found under rapid acceleration.

Now, I know that people are often thrown off by flat pedals due to the potential of these sharp pins bruising, or even bleeding their shins. But bear with me, there’s hope for you too…

The Pedal Shape Retains Your Feet On Smooth Surfaces

Pedals without pins can still be effective when they employ a large concave surface. This allows your foot to be ‘cupped’ by the pedal, creating a stable and secure platform on smooth surfaces. It’s also possible to install smaller pins or even remove them entirely from the centre of your pedal.

If the riding surface is not bumpy, a serrated lip on either pedal edge will keep your foot secure enough. You can see this feature on the excellent and affordable Shimano EF-202 pedals (pictured above).

The Flat Pedal Platforms Come In Many Sizes

Flat pedal platforms come in many sizes and are ideally sized in proportion to your feet. The larger the feet, the bigger the pedal platform should be.

An advantage to an adequately large pedal platform is that you can naturally find your optimal foot placement.

Platform dimensions less than 100 x 100 mm are considered small, and greater than 110 x 100 mm are considered large. If your foot is US Men’s 8 (EU40) or smaller, then size small pedals may be all you need.

The company Pedaling Innovations takes platform size to the extreme by providing support to your entire foot arch. They measure out at a monstrous 143 x 95 mm!

The idea is that the big platform helps to avoid hot spots or tired feet since a larger proportion of your foot can be supported. With such big pedals, you can wear even softer-soled shoes too, while achieving a stiff and grippy shoe interface.

Summary

In my years of bike fitting, I’ve seen a lot of riders make the transition from clip-in pedals to flat pedals. Many quickly benefited from the ease of entry and unhindered riding experience of flat pedals, allowing them to cycle in their favorite walking shoes.

In some cases, the change from clip-in to flat pedals actually made an appreciable difference in my customer’s riding comfort, efficiency, and control of their bikes. It’s hard to tell if this is a result of the additional riding confidence, or simply because their bodies are better suited to flat pedals.

The only time my customers were angry with me was after they accidentally hit their shins. In this case, we usually agreed to fit much shorter pins to their pedals.

The transition from clip-in pedals to flat pedals is an easy adjustment to make, and it’s easy to try out too. I suspect you might already have suitably comfortable shoes that are ready to use.

Next, make sure to read my resource about how to select the best flat pedals for your needs.

The post Why Flat Pedals Are Better Than Clip-In Pedals (For Most People) appeared first on CYCLINGABOUT.com.